Gluten-free, Dairy-free Classic chocolate celebration cake

Ollie

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This is a simple chocolate celebration cake for all occasions, made with classic components: chocolate Génoise type sponge, classic chocolate crème mousseline, and chocolate frosting.

A Génoise type sponge is an essential tool in any pastry chef’s toolbox. It is a classic in its own right. It is used as a base for all types of celebration cakes, jellyrolls, elegantly decorated petit fours, and a wide range of desserts. It is the most versatile and widely used type of French cake. It is a true sponge cake; it is simply trapped air. A good Génoise is fine textured, yet strong, or firm, and tender at the same time. The purpose of a Génoise type sponge is to support other elements and flavours. It is perfect for unlimited dessert creations. Traditionally, desserts built using a foundation of Génoise are delicate and refined, just as a classic should be. The chocolate version follows a similar pattern. It has a light, delicate chocolate flavour and colour (note that it not meant to be heavy, dark and moist as is the case with some other cake types). It is especially good in combination with other chocolate creams or ganaches.

A classic chocolate crème mousseline is a pastry cream that has been whipped with soft butter until it is lighter and more structured. It tends to be used when the cream component of the recipe needs to stand, or hold up, such as when a cake is cut.

Basically, this chocolate frosting is a thicker version of a firm ganache. The cream normally used in a firm ganache is replaced with butter. The ganache is transformed to a frosting consistency by the addition of powdered sugar. It is pourable.
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The crème mousseline is made dairy free with the use of Hemp milk.

This recipe makes a two layer 23cm (9in) diameter Classic chocolate celebration cake.

Ingredients:
Chocolate génoise type sponge 2 layers
Classic chocolate crème mousseline filling
Chocolate frosting

Day
This is concerned with: making the Chocolate génoise type sponge layers; the classic chocolate crème mousseline filling; assembling the cake with the filling; making the Chocolate frosting; applying the frosting; and, if required, applying any decoration.

Chocolate génoise
This Gluten-free recipe is for a round chocolate génoise. It is based upon the Gluten recipe of Bruce Healy and Paul Bugat (The Art of the Cake, (New York, William Marrow and Company, Inc, 1999), yet with a modified method that is influenced both by Shirley Corriher in, BakeWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes, (New York, Scribner, 2008) and Sherry Yard in The Secrets of Baking, (New York, Houghton Mifflin, 2003).

It will be noted that in the recipe below that extra egg yolks are added to the whole eggs (a génoise normally calls for just whole eggs). This is to obtain the stable egg foam needed to produce a successful génoise. The reasoning as given by E J Pyler in Baking Science and Technology (as quoted in BakeWise) is that modern eggs may be deficient in yolk proteins so it is common practice to add 20 – 50% more yolks to improve both aerating ability and foam stability. Also, E B Bennion states in The Technology of Cake Making (again quoted in BakeWise) that the best quantity of yolks to add is 20% for similar reasons. On top of this there are two approximate rules for génoise recipes: the weight of the flour (including cocoa powder) and sugar to be close to equal; and the amount of sugar to be less than 1.25 of the weight of the eggs. This recipe falls within both guidelines, with the ratio of sugar to eggs being 0.59; well below the 1.25 limit.

Ingredients: (makes two 23cm (9in) round génoise layers)
Gluten-free flour mix* 180g
Cocoa powder (alkaline) 45g
Butter (optional) 45g (sliced and cubed)
Cane sugar 220g (11 + 209g)
Eggs 398g (7 Large plus 3 yolks)

*Gluten-free flour mix: 440g Brown Rice flour, 125g Sweet Rice flour, 45g Potato starch, 95g Tapioca starch, and 55g Arrowroot. Total weight: 760g

Method:
Lightly grease two 23cm (9in) round cake pans (3.5cm (1 3/8in) high) with softened butter. Line the bottom and the sides up to the top of the pan with parchment paper, and then lightly grease with softened butter.

Adjust a rack to the middle of the oven, and preheat the oven to 190°C for 45 minutes.

Sift the gluten-free flour mix and cocoa powder into a medium sized bowl (1), add in 1Tbsp (11g) cane sugar, and whisk to incorporate. This is to help later when folding in the flour with the whipped egg mixture; it will make it easier. Set aside.

If adding the optional butter, fill a medium saucepan (2) with about 5cm (1in) of water and over medium heat bring to a simmer. Place a small bowl (3) on top containing the sliced and cubed butter. Using a metal dessert spoon, melt the butter, when it is approximately three quarters melted, remove the bowl from the heat and continue to stir to completion. Set aside.

Rinse a stand mixing bowl (4) with hot tap water to warm it, then dry well.

If not already done so, fill a medium saucepan (2) with about 5cm (1in) of water and over medium heat bring to a simmer.

Add the eggs and yolks to the warm mixing bowl (4) and break the yolks with either a fork or a whisk; add the rest of the cane sugar and whisk to combine for a minimum of 30 seconds. Then, place the warm, filled mixing bowl (4) on top of the saucepan (2) containing the simmering water; turn the heat to low. If whipping by hand, tilt the mixing bowl forward, almost horizontal, and sweep the whisk around the bottom of the bowl, with each revolution lifting the whole of the mass of egg mix to incorporate air into the process. If using a hand-held mixer, use a similar process. Whisk continuously for 3 – 4 minutes, or until the egg mix reaches a temperature of 40°C and the mix is frothy and pale yellow.

Remove the filled mixer bowl (4) from the double boiler and wipe the bottom dry. Place the filled bowl on a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, or use an electric mixer. Whip at medium speed for 12 – 17 minutes, until the egg-sugar mixture is three times the original volume, is thick, is almost white in colour, and is completely cool to a finger dipped in it. During the last 4 – 5 minutes of whisking stop from time to time to check the ribbon thickness when dropped from the whisk. There will be some definition of it in the filled bowl, it will initially stay on top of the mixture before spreading slightly and slowly flattening as it dissolves into the mass of whipped egg-sugar mix.

Turn the speed down to the lowest, then drizzle in the cooled, yet liquid, melted butter (bowl 3) and mix for 15 seconds until incorporated. If the butter has cooled too much and it is no longer liquid, place it in a microwave oven and briefly heat to liquify.

Sift a quarter of the Gluten-free flour mix over the top of the whipped egg-sugar mix, avoiding the edges of the bowl. Imagine a clockface. Gently immerse a whisk vertically into the foam, facing forward at the 12 o’clock position and drag it across the bottom of the bowl. At the 6 o’clock position, lift up the whisk, and with it a large dollop of the mix, turn it over and spread it across the top of the sifted flour, folding the flour into the mix. Rotate the mixer bowl one quarter turn, sift another quarter of the flour mix and fold again. Repeat with the third batch of flour, and again with the last quarter of sifted four mix and folding that in to fully incorporate the flour into the cake batter.

Pour and scrape the cake batter into the prepared cake pans, filling them to between one third and three quarters of their height. Tap each pan lightly on the worksurface a few times to eliminate any air bubbles. Then, smooth the surface of the batter with a spatula, pushing it out to the sides to make a slight depression in the centre.

Place the filled cake pan on a baking sheet on the middle shelf of a preheated oven and bake for 16 – 20 minutes, or until the chocolate génoise starts to pull away slightly from the sides of the pan, and is firm to the touch. As an additional test, place the tip of a paring knife in the centre of the cake, and if it comes out wet yet clean, the chocolate génoise is done. If it doesn’t, bake for a further 5 – 10 minutes.

Remove the chocolate génoise from the oven, place it on a wire cooling rack, and slide the tip of a paring knife between the edge of the chocolate génoise and the cake pan; to fully loosen the edge. Let the chocolate génoise cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Unmould the chocolate génoise on to another wire cooling rack covered with a sheet of parchment paper. Remove the parchment paper that the chocolate génoise was baked on and cool right side up for at least 2 hours before using.

Chocolate génoise may be kept at room temperature for up to 2 days, or covered airtight in a fridge for 2 days too. Alternatively freeze for up to 2 weeks in a freezer. If frozen, defrost overnight in a refrigerator, then unwrap the chocolate génoise for at least 2 hours before using.

Classic chocolate crème mousseline
The Chocolate crème Mousseline recipe is based upon the recipe for a Classic Crème Mousseline given in Baking, (Berkeley, Ten Speed Press, 2009) by Peterson J. The method is heavily influenced by that of Healy B, and Bugat P in The Art of the Cake, (New York, William Marrow and Company, Inc, 1999). The method uses the less popular way of creating a crème mousseline, that of creaming the warm butter before adding the room temperature pastry cream. This method is less prone to curdling, looking grainy or splitting. However, if that should occur, guidelines are given for overcoming this effect.

Ingredients: (enough for one generous layer in a 23cm (9in) cake)
Butter (room temp, chopped) 170g
Cane Sugar 50g
Eggs 64g (1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk)
Cornstarch 2Tbsp plus 1 1/2tsp
Hemp milk 240g
Vanilla essence 1/2tsp
Dark chocolate 57g (chopped)
Gelatin (approximately 1 sheet (2.5g) per 120g of wet mix)

Method:
Take the butter out of the refrigerator, at least 30 minutes before use, and bring it up to room temperature.
In a large bowl (1) add sugar, egg, and yolk, and whisk together for at least 30 seconds (otherwise the egg yolks will burn due to the acid in the sugar), to form a smooth, lemon coloured mixture. Whisk in the cornstarch until the mixture is smooth.
In a small saucepan (2) over medium heat, add the Hemp milk and Vanilla essence, and bring the milk to a gentle simmer, yet avoid boiling.
Add the chopped chocolate to the simmering Hemp milk and vanilla essence (saucepan 2), stir to melt and blend in (at least for two minutes).
Turn off the heat. Slowly pour half of the hot milk (saucepan 2) into the egg mixture (bowl 1) and stir constantly with a wire whisk. This is called tempering, and is a method of easing two components with widely different temperatures to cook together and prevent premature coagulation: to control the rate of protein folding and reconnecting.
Pour the resultant mixture (2) back into the saucepan (1) containing the remaining hot milk mixture and whisk together to combine.
Turn heat back on to medium-low, for even unfolding and reconnection of the egg proteins, and stir the pastry cream mixture with a wooden spoon until it is thoroughly blended and smooth. Make sure that wooden spoon reaches everywhere - bottom, sides, and corners, so that the mixture does not burn. Keep the spoon in constant motion. Once you sense that the mixture is slightly thick on the bottom of the saucepan (look at bottom of spoon), remove it from the heat. Once the mixture has reached 75 – 77°C the egg proteins reattach and solidify. Heating above 77°C will result in an ‘eggy’ taste to the custard. The thickened mixture should thickly coat the back of the wooden spoon.
Off heat, continue stirring the pastry cream mixture for a further minute, until the mixture is thick, smooth and uniform (this allows a slow and even coagulation of the eggs and will produce a creamy texture).

Return the saucepan to the heat and cook for a further 1 – 2 mins to overcome any resultant starch flavour.

If using gelatin sheets, bloom them in a bowl (4) of cold water for approximately 10 minutes until softened. Drain off the water from the gelatin sheets. Melt the gelatin in a microwave oven for 2 – 3 x 10 second bursts on full power.
If using gelatin powder, place 2tsp of powder into a small bowl (4), add 4Tbsp of cold water, whisk quickly so that all of the granules are surrounded by water, or clusters will appear. After 5 minutes of whisking, the mixture should bloom and become spongy; then allow to thicken for 5 minutes. To melt, either use the method above for gelatin sheets, or, stand the bowl in another, larger bowl (5) of hot water and stir until all the gelatin is dissolved. Cool slightly.
Drizzle the melted gelatin into the pastry cream mixture (bowl 2) and whisk until well-mixed.

Line a baking tray with clingfilm, and pour the pastry cream into this, ensuring that it is thinner than 5cm (2in) in thickness. Allow the pastry cream to cool to room temperature. Check the bottom of the baking tray, it is cool when the bottom of the baking tray feels cold. To speed up the process, cover with another sheet of clingfilm and place in a refrigerator. The pastry cream should be thick, creamy, and smooth, indicating that the fat, in the butter, milk, and eggs, has been properly emulsified with the water in the milk and eggs.

Remove the top layer of the clingfilm. Using a rubber, or silicon spatula roll up the pastry cream to one end of the baking tray and scoop into a bowl.

If not already at room temperature, bring the Pastry cream up to room temperature, this will take approximately 30 minutes.

In the bowl (3) of a stand mixer add the sliced and cubed butter, fit the mixer with a whisk or flat paddle attachment (a flat paddle type attachment will produce a smoother mousseline with fewer bubbles). To fully aerate the butter, and thus establish a stable emulsion when the custard is added, beat at medium speed until it is smooth, pale in colour, and creamy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. At the slowest speed, slowly add in the cooled custard (one tablespoon at a time), beating until the cream is light and creamy. Beat for a further 3 – 4 minutes, at the end, until it is totally homogeneous and creamy.

If the chocolate crème mousseline looks grainy, or splits, there are a few measures to regain a smooth crème mousseline. First, using the flat paddle attachment, beat for a further 5 minutes at medium speed until smooth. This will help in warming up the butter and allowing the pastry cream to cool; bringing both to a similar temperature. If that is unsuccessful, place the mixing bowl over low heat for 15 – 20 seconds (to get a little of the crème mousseline to melt), then beat again for 5 minutes. This may need repeating once or twice to get the mousseline smooth.

Use immediately, or keep, tightly covered with clingfilm, in a refrigerator for up to three days. To use, bring up to room temperature and whip the chocolate crème mousseline first, so that it can aerate.

Once cool, and if not using immediately, cover the surface with wax paper, or buttered parchment paper (this will ensure that the pastry cream does not form a skin). Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Classic chocolate crème Mousseline cannot be frozen, as the starch and protein bonds will break down. Also, in the process of defrosting, the Classic chocolate crème Mousseline will weep, producing moisture, resulting in a runny, rather than stiff, consistency.

Assembly 1.1
To assemble the cake, first, cut three or four strips of wide (enough to fit under edge of cake and overlap plate edge, all the way round) parchment paper; place on top of one of the chocolate génoise layers, place a plate on top, and invert so that the flat, baked bottom of the chocolate génoise layer is on top, and the plate is on the bottom. Secondly, invert the other layer onto a parchment covered cooling rack, again with the flat, baked bottom of the chocolate génoise layer on top.

After making the classic chocolate crème mousseline filling, spread it generously over the first (cake layer on plate) flat surface, starting around the outer perimeter, going right to the edge; finally, place any chocolate crème mousseline left into the centre of the cake surface. Spread the cream evenly with a thin metal spatula, smoothing the cream in towards the centre.

Then, place the other cake layer, with the flat side uppermost, on top of the layer of crème mousseline filling. Press down to firm up the filling, to force it right out, even outside of the cake. Then, using a thin, offset metal spatula, clean up any excess filling and smooth the filling edges flat to the cake layers.

Place the filled cake in a refrigerator to firm up the classic chocolate crème mousseline filling.

Chocolate frosting
This recipe is based upon that given in Sherry Yard’s book: The Secrets of Baking, (New York, Houghton Mifflin, 2003).

Ingredients: (enough for frosting a two layer 23cm (9in) cake)
Dark chocolate 227g
Butter 113g (well softened to room temperature)
Powdered cane sugar 57g

Method:
Finely chop the chocolate into 6mm (1/4in) pieces and set aside.
Place the softened butter in a stainless steel bowl (1). Add the finely chopped pieces.
Place the filled bowl (1) on top of a saucepan of just simmering water, so that the water is touching the bowl. Stir the chocolate butter mix occasionally, until it is fully melted, about 3 - 4 minutes).
When the chocolate is fully melted, remove the bowl from the heat. #
Sift the powdered sugar into the melted chocolate butter mix, and slowly mix it in using a spatula to stir it. Initially, the new mixture may look like cottage cheese (depending upon the brand (thickness of the slab) of chocolate used), however, as more powdered sugar is added the mixture will become smoother. Stir it for 3 – 4 minutes until all of the powdered sugar is incorporated.

The frosting should be used immediately for easy spreadability, straight on to the prepared (cold) cake.

If the chocolate frosting is stored for later use, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for up to 2 days. To use, in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the chocolate frosting for 3 – 4 minutes, to fluff it up.

Assembly 1.2
Remove the filled cake from the refrigerator.

Pour a little of the chocolate frosting on to the middle of the cake surface, and spread around, to evenly crumb coat the cake surface (filling in any depressions, etc, so that the surface is level). Allow this to set.
Slowly pour the chocolate frosting into the middle of the cake surface, allow the frosting to flow outwards before applying a little more. Repeat this process, encouraging the flow out to the edges (yet not over) with a spatula, until it is all used up. If any of the frosting escapes over the edge, wipe it up with a paper towel.

Work quickly as the chocolate frosting cools rapidly.

When finished, place the glazed Classic celebration cake back into a refrigerator, so that the chocolate frosting may set.
If the cake is to be decorated, leave it in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes before removing and then making any decoration on the chocolate frosted surface.

Replace the finished Classic chocolate celebration in a refrigerator until it is time to eat.

Enjoy.

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(Putting it all together!)
 
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