Getting rid of razor burn and shaving like your grandpa

[Renaissance]

I've been using a safety razor to shave during this past year and have found a number of benefits. I think the number one thing is that it gets rid of razor burn and the irritation and sores that come as a result of using dull blades. Most razors are pretty expensive and for me the only time I wouldn't break out would be after the first use of a blade. And those multi-blade razors cost a ridiculous amount of money. The initial investment for a new safety razor is high at about $40, but you might be able to find one at a thrift shop or antique store. They're also not made in the US anymore, so for people living in the US you can buy them on amazon. Safety razors use the razors you'll find in the local pharmacy, which are relatively cheap and work a lot better than their 5-blade counterparts. Since these razors are super sharp, you really only need one and you just use the weight of the safety razor to shave. Any more could break the skin. You also only shave with the grain of the whisker, going against the grain causes in grown hairs and irritation. It's also nice to use a shaving soap and brush, which seem better for the skin than those chemical shaving creams.

When I was researching safety razors, I found this article helpful:

_http://artofmanliness.com/2008/01/04/how-to-shave-like-your-grandpa/

How to shave Like Your Grandpa

Proper shaving has become a lost art. Today’s average male has no clue about the fine art of the traditional wet shave that their grandfathers and some of their fathers used to take part in. Instead, they’re only accustomed to the cheap and disposable shaving products that companies market. I’m not sure when or why it happened, but the tradition of passing down the secrets of a clean shave abruptly stopped. Thankfully, this glorious male ritual is making a comeback.

Benefits of The Classic Wet Shave

Reduce costs. An 8 pack of your typical four blade cartridge razors can set you back over $20. $20! That’s $2.50 per cartridge. The cost of a double edged safety razor is no more than $.25. You can save some serious money switching over to a safety razor. Additionally, you can save money by using traditional shaving creams and soaps. A can of the chemically packed gel
goop that most drug stores sell can cost you up to $5 a can and it doesn’t even last that long and they don’t give you a quality shave. On the other hand, traditional shave creams and soaps are made out of natural materials. While their up front cost may be a bit more than shaving gels, you require less product to get a proper lather. Thus, you end up saving more in the long run.

Reduce environmental impact. Traditional wet shaving with a double edged safety razor uses less waste than shaving with cartridge razors. The only waste is a single metal razor blade and lather down the sink. Unlike today’s razor cartridges, a double edged blade can easily be recycled. The tubes and bowls that most traditional shave creams and soaps are sold in produce less waste than those clunky non-biodegradable aerosol canisters that gels come in.

Better, more consistent shaves. Most men today walk around not knowing they have horrible shaves. Electric razors and the latest 5 blade contraptions irritate the skin more than needed, leaving razor burn, ingrown hairs, and redness. Shaving with a safety razor will eliminate the skin irritation and give your face a clean healthy look because you’re just using one blade instead of several that chew up your face in order to cut your whiskers.

You’ll feel like a bad ass. It’s nice taking part in a ritual that great men like your grandfather, John F. Kennedy, and Teddy Roosevelt took part in.

The Tools

Safety Razor

Switching from a cheap disposable razor to double edged safety razor is like upgrading from a Pinto to a Mercedes. A safety razor is a machine. It’s nice holding a piece of heavy, sturdy metal in your hand while you’re shaving as opposed to a piece of cheap-o plastic.

You can find safety razors in a variety of places. First, ask your grandpa if he still has his. Chances are he does. If gramps doesn’t have one, try checking antique stores. I found my 1966 Gillette Superspeed Safety Razor in an antique store in Vermont. I only paid $10 for it. If you don’t have any luck there, stop by eBay and do a search for safety razors. You’re bound to find a few there. Finally, if buying a used safety razor doesn’t fancy you, you can always buy a new one from the several companies that still make them. A highly recommended safety razor is from Merkur. They have several types to choose from at varying prices. Look to spend about $40 for a new safety razor.

Suggested Razors
Merkur Classic Safety Razor, Straight-#178- Made in Germany
Merkur Futur Adjustable Double Edge Safety Razor with Satin Finish- #700- Made in Germany
Merkur Classic Long Handled Safety Razor, Straight

Blades

You can choose from a variety of different blades. Each blade has a unique sharpness and cutting ability. Experiment with different kinds until you find the ones you like.

Suggested Razors

American Personna. You can find these in most drugstores. They’re usually marketed as generic brand blades. They’re pretty forgiving for the first time user.
Merkur Double Edge Razor Blades- Pack of 10 Blades- Made in Germany

Shaving Brush.

If you’ve never used a brush during shaving, you’re in for a treat. A brush helps hydrate the shaving cream in order to form a thick rich shaving lather. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves. Plus, it just feels nice on your face to lather up with a brush.

Brushes are made out of two types of animal hair: boar and badger. Boar bristles are stiffer than badger bristles and hold less water. Boar hair brushes are also cheaper. You can find a boar hair brush at Wal-Mart for about $4. If you really want to have a nice shaving experience, splurge and buy a badger hair brush. Badger brushes create more lather and it feels a lot nicer on your face. You can pick up a nice badger brush at any Crabtree and Evelyn. If you don’t have a Crabtree in your area, try Amazon.

Suggested Brushes

Omega Creamy Curved Handle Pure Badger Shaving Brush – #13109
Porter’s Badger Shaving Brush
Omega Brownie Junior Badger Shaving Brush with Stand – #63184
Soaps and Creams

If you’re like the average guy, you’ve probably been getting your shaving cream from a can. This blue/green, chemically laced goop does nothing for your face and smells like a hospital. Traditional shave creams and soaps on the other hand are full of natural ingredients that nourish your face and leave you smelling absolutely manly. While these high quality creams and soaps may cost more than the can stuff, just a dab will create enough lather for you to lather up twice.

Suggested Creams and Soaps

Proraso Eucalyptus & Menthol Shaving Cream 150 ml.
Kiss My Face Fragrance Free Moisture Shave, 11-Ounce Pumps (Pack of 4)
Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood Shaving Cream Jar
Proraso Shave Cream Tube
Body Shop For Men Shave Cream

The Technique

Prep your beard. If you want a clean shave, you need to prep your beard adequately. The goal during beard prep is to soften your whiskers so shaving is easier and causes less irritation. The best way to soften your beard is to to shave right when you get out of the shower. The hot water from your shower should hydrate and soften your beard enough for shaving. If you haven’t showered, at least wet your beard with some hot water. A hot towel is a great way to soften your beard.

Lather up. Take a small dollop (about the size of nickel) of your shave cream and place it in a mug. Take your brush that you’ve pre-soaked with water and swirl the cream around until you get a nice thick lather. Apply the lather with your brush in swirling motions. When your face is nice and covered, take a few strokes to smooth everything out.

The shave. Unlike shaving with cartridge razors, shaving with a safety razor actually requires some skill and technique. Once mastered, though, you should be shaving effectively in no time. The four keys to a successful shave with a safety razor are 1) use as little pressure as possible; 2) angle the blade as far away from your face as possible; 3) shave with the grain; and 4) go for beard reduction, not beard removal. This will take some getting used to if you have used cartridges your entire life.

You don’t need to use pressure because the weight of the safety razor is sufficient to cut your beard. If you press down, you’ll end up hacking up your face. To help counter the tendency to apply pressure, try holding the razor by the tip of the handle.

Angling your razor is probably the trickiest part. The proper angle is somewhere around 30 and 45 degrees. To get the proper razor angle, put the top of the razor head directly on your cheek, with the handle parallel with the floor. Now slowly lower the handle until the blade can cut your whisker. Practice on your arm if you’re not comfortable practicing on your face.

While shaving against the grain can get you that smooth feel, you risk slicing up your face and causing ingrown hairs. When you’re first starting out, shave with the grain of your beard. If you lather up and pass the razor more than once over your face, you’re guaranteed to get a smooth finish.

The goal with shaving should be gradual beard reduction, not beard removal in one deft swoop. Most men try to get rid of their beard in once pass of the razor. This hack-and-go technique is what causes the majority of skin irritations. If you want to avoid skin irritation, lather up and pass your razor over your face several times. Your face will thank you.

Post-shave. Rinse your face off with some cold water to close your pores. Treat your face to a nice aftershave. There are several to choose from, so pick the one you like best. Aftershave helps reduce any irritation that may have occurred and will leave your skin looking healthy.

Additional resources

Several resources exist on the internet on traditional wet shaving. Check these sites out for more information.

Badger and Blade - This is an excellent resource. I learned most of what I know about the traditional wet shave from this forum.
Shaveblog
A Guide to the Gourmet Shaving Experiene

 

[abstract]

Dude, I am sooooo getting a straight razor.

 

[gaman]

I am too. I have to verify I can find good quality blades around here.

A someone who has always had bad neck irritation with every razor I've tried, I'm intrigued to try this.

I can also recommend a product called Shave Secret to help with irritation. It is a little bottle of oil and you use it instead of shaving cream. Immediately after a shower, re-wet your face with warm/hot water, but 5 drops of the oil in your palms, rub them together, and then rub over your face and shave. It hasn't totally solved the irritation but it has helped quite a bit.

The only thing is you have to continually rinse the razor in hot water as the oil cause it to clog a little easier.

 

[Renaissance]

Dude, I am sooooo getting a straight razor.

Opps, sorry. I meant 'safety razor' in the first sentence, not a straight razor, which takes a lot of skill and practice to use. Safety razors have a similar shape to a regular razor, but are shorter, heavier and made entirely of metal. Straight razors are those that you'd see an old time barber using, where you're using just the blade. Safety razors seem a little more.. safe.

 

[Ca.]

Dude, I am sooooo getting a straight razor.

Opps, sorry. I meant 'safety razor' in the first sentence, not a straight razor, which takes a lot of skill and practice to use. Safety razors have a similar shape to a regular razor, but are shorter, heavier and made entirely of metal. Straight razors are those that you'd see an old time barber using, where you're using just the blade. Safety razors seem a little more.. safe.

Wow when i read straight razor, i thought, Shane must have quite the experience, and steady hand for this time acquirered skill, to use a straight razor with confidence. The second choice is safer, but is as sharp and also takes time to adjust to this method of shaving to avoid slicing as to cutting the skins surface. For safety i use the triple blade, to avoid cuts and go slow as to avoid nicks as well . I have posted pic's, from top being the most difficult, to the bottom, to the safest, method for the almost same results, a clean shave. Best of luck what ever your choice's.

 

[Nević Nenad]

I can only second using of classic safety razor. Problems with facial skin gone very quickly. I'm having one russian machine (good, old and sturdy, I inherited from my late dad, it's some 30 years old now :D) Its totally different feeling having it in hand then light plastic modern piece of cartridge junk.

For aftershave I use just pharmacy alcohol, its 96% I think. No itching, scratching, acnes . . .

 

[Tigersoap]

I use a triple blade razor with a shaving cream from Weleda because it's way smoother like this and I don't get a rash with this product compared to a regular shaving cream.

 

[Pierre]

If you get a cut, you can use some alum to stop the bleeding (that's very efficient).

Alum is also a natural deodorant.

Antiperspiration and antibleeding are both due to the astringent properties of alum (shrink body tissus)

 

[dant]

Double-edged, safety razors for picture #1 & #2, reply
#44 above, are not allowed on air travel. I checked.
The TSA says that #2 can be removed from the holder
and turned into weapons. Pictures #3 and #4 are allowed.

 

[anart]

If you get a cut, you can use some alum to stop the bleeding (that's very efficient).

Alum is also a natural deodorant.

Antiperspiration and antibleeding are both due to the astringent properties of alum (shrink body tissus)

It's my understanding that the antiperspirant function of alum is due to the killing of bacteria on the skin. I'm not clear on how the 'shrinking of tissue' would affect perspiration - could you elaborate and clear it up for me?

 

[paralleloscope]

I'm happy you brougth this up Shane. I've been unwilling to buy new gillette blades for the last 8 months, as I was angry at the crazy prices and perceived monopoly, unaware of this alternative I've been shaving with an old electric trimmer which leaves stuble and a 'snoozy' look. Just ordered a safety razor, looking forward to a clean shave. Cheers

 

[Mountain Crown]

Thanks for this Shane. I'm thinking of getting a safety razor now.

 

[Renaissance]

Double-edged, safety razors for picture #1 & #2, reply
#44 above, are not allowed on air travel. I checked.
The TSA says that #2 can be removed from the holder
and turned into weapons. Pictures #3 and #4 are allowed.

This is for all air travel, including checked luggage?

 

[Z...]

If you get a cut, you can use some alum to stop the bleeding (that's very efficient).

Alum is also a natural deodorant.

Antiperspiration and antibleeding are both due to the astringent properties of alum (shrink body tissus)

It's my understanding that the antiperspirant function of alum is due to the killing of bacteria on the skin. I'm not clear on how the 'shrinking of tissue' would affect perspiration - could you elaborate and clear it up for me?

In theory. It is my experience that alum sticks work well with superficial cuts, with deeper cuts they are useless.
Since I've been using new high tech Gillete razors I never get cuts or shave burns.

I find that styptic powder used in veterinary medicine works instantly.

I am not sure how alum works as anti deodorant probably by closing the pores and stopping the sweat - so it doesnt really sound like a good thing FWIW

 

[Gawan]

Hello Shane.

Thanks for bringing this topic up. And I bought one last weekend, cause of the same reason you mentioned: expensive blades and also the chemicals on Gillette blades for example.

Double-edged, safety razors for picture #1 & #2, reply
#44 above, are not allowed on air travel. I checked.
The TSA says that #2 can be removed from the holder
and turned into weapons. Pictures #3 and #4 are allowed.

This is for all air travel, including checked luggage?

Not on board, but in the checked luggage it is possible.

_http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/index.php/Traveling_with_a_Safety_Razor