Tsunamis around the world

thorbiorn

The Living Force
FOTCM Member
We have threads about volcanoes, earthquakes, the weather, etc. but I could not find one dedicated to tsunamis. Tsunamis are secondary events that can happen for a variety of reasons, like earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, the detonation of very powerful explosive devices, earth slides, large icebergs breaking off, or meteorite impacts. Because they are secondary events, tsunamis will often be mentioned in connection with their primary causative event. Tsunamis are still important, especially the major ones that leave their marks in the pages of history. Below are few descriptions, images, and some history about tsunamis.

How a tsunami moves
The International Tsunami Information Center writes:
From the area where the tsunami originates, waves travel outward in all directions. Once the wave approaches the shore, it builds in height. The topography of the coastline and the ocean floor will influence the size of the wave. There may be more than one wave and the succeeding one may be larger than the one before. That is why a small tsunami at one beach can be a giant wave a few miles away.
[...]
Earthquake-induced movement of the ocean floor most often generates tsunamis. If a major earthquake or landslide occurs close to shore, the first wave in a series could reach the beach in a few minutes, even before a warning is issued. Areas are at greater risk if they are less than 25 feet above sea level and within a mile of the shoreline. Drowning is the most common cause of death associated with a tsunami. Tsunami waves and the receding water are very destructive to structures in the run-up zone. Other hazards include flooding, contamination of drinking water, and fires from gas lines or ruptured tanks.​
Tsunamis create waves and the waves move. Below are two maps that depict the models for the effects on the ocean in terms of the height of a tsunami wave, and how the wave travels.
Map of wave heights generated by the tsunami on December 26, 2004
Below is an example of how the tsunami wave varies with location. It is not clear to me if it is feet or meter, but comparing with the description on the Wiki it would seem to be in feet. For instance, up to 9 meter waves were reported on the coasts of Somalia. Nine meters would be close to 30 feet and deserving of a red color. Notice that the wave in some direction appears to maintain more energy, and that the coast of Western Australia had waves one would not expect when just looking at the ocean in between.
PMEL_max_global_big.png
Map of the travel time for the wave generated by the tsunami on December 26, 2004
The color and lines signify time and areas by hours. South Africa is about 5000 km away. Somalia 3000 km.
NOAA_TravelTime_big.png
An example of a well described historical tsunami
While earthquakes can destroy by breaking everything apart, tsunamis can destroy by washing away. This is well described, also, by ancient sources. About the effect of the Crete earthquake in 365 there is, (even if neither the date, nor the event in the Wiki is 100 % established, the Wiki mentions 350-450!):
The Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus described in detail the tsunami that hit Alexandria and other places in the early hours of 21 July 365.[3] His account is particularly noteworthy for clearly distinguishing the three main phases of a tsunami, namely an initial earthquake, the sudden retreat of the sea and an ensuing gigantic wave rolling inland:

Slightly after daybreak, and heralded by a thick succession of fiercely shaken thunderbolts, the solidity of the whole earth was made to shake and shudder, and the sea was driven away, its waves were rolled back, and it disappeared, so that the abyss of the depths was uncovered and many-shaped varieties of sea-creatures were seen stuck in the slime; the great wastes of those valleys and mountains, which the very creation had dismissed beneath the vast whirlpools, at that moment, as it was given to be believed, looked up at the sun's rays. Many ships, then, were stranded as if on dry land, and people wandered at will about the paltry remains of the waters to collect fish and the like in their hands; then the roaring sea as if insulted by its repulse rises back in turn, and through the teeming shoals dashed itself violently on islands and extensive tracts of the mainland, and flattened innumerable buildings in towns or wherever they were found. Thus in the raging conflict of the elements, the face of the earth was changed to reveal wondrous sights. For the mass of waters returning when least expected killed many thousands by drowning, and with the tides whipped up to a height as they rushed back, some ships, after the anger of the watery element had grown old, were seen to have sunk, and the bodies of people killed in shipwrecks lay there, faces up or down. Other huge ships, thrust out by the mad blasts, perched on the roofs of houses, as happened at Alexandria, and others were hurled nearly two miles from the shore, like the Laconian vessel near the town of Methone which I saw when I passed by, yawning apart from long decay.[18]
The tsunami in 365 was so devastating that the anniversary of the disaster was still commemorated annually at the end of the sixth century in Alexandria as a "day of horror".[19][10]
The International Tsunami Information Center has a map of 1200 historical tsunamis.
Clearly, some areas are more exposed. In the picture below, the triangle signifies an earthquake as the cause, the square a landslide, and the question mark an unknown source. A white sign means no fatalities, the orange and violet some, while yellow is from 101-1000 and the red is more than a 1000.
The history of tsunamis.png
The explanation below the image mentions a distinction between local, regional and teletsunamis
NOAA’s National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) and co-located World Data Service (WDS) for Geophysics and the International Tsunami Information Center (ITIC), a UNESCO/IOC-NOAA partnership, have collaborated to produce a map showing tsunami sources. The information comes from the NCEI Global Historical Tsunami Database that includes information on tsunami source events throughout the world that range in date from 1610 B.C. to A.D. 2017. The tsunami definitions are from the Tsunami Glossary 2016 published by UNESCO IOC.

Of the 2,500 events in the NCEI Global Historical Tsunami Database, over 1,200 confirmed tsunami source events are displayed on the map. A total of 252 confirmed deadly tsunamis have resulted in over 540,000 known (or confirmed) deaths. The death total may include deaths from the generating event (e.g., earthquake) as it is not always possible to separate deaths from the different causes. These figures should be much higher, but in many events the actual number of fatalities is not known. The reporting of deadly tsunamis is not homogeneous in space or time, particularly for periods prior to the 1900s.

Tsunamis are also classified by how far away the effects of the waves were observed. For example, the effects of a local tsunami are confined to coasts within about 100 km (62 miles) or less than 1 hour tsunami travel time from its source. A tsunami capable of destruction within 1,000 km (621 miles) or 1-3 hours travel time from its source is considered a regional tsunami. Most destructive tsunamis can be classified as local or regional. It follows that many tsunami-related deaths and considerable property damage result from these tsunamis (Table 1). In fact, 90% of all tsunami deaths in the historic record occurred in the local or regional area within the first 3 hours of the event. Between 1980 and 2017 there were 34 local or regional confirmed tsunamis that resulted in deaths and property damage (Table 2); 24 of these were in the Pacific and its adjacent seas.

A distant or teletsunami is a tsunami originating from a far away source, generally more than 1,000 km (621 miles) or more than 3 hours tsunami travel time away. They usually start as a local tsunami that causes extensive destruction near the source; the waves then continue to travel across the entire ocean basin with sufficient energy to cause additional deaths and destruction on distant shores. In the last 300 years, there have been at least 43 confirmed damaging teletsunamis and 18 caused deaths more than 1,000 km (621 miles) from the source (Table 3).
The estimated death toll from listed historical tsunamis
The last list to include from the above page shows:
Tsunami death toll .png
A recent example from Greenland
In the left list, the last event was caused by a landslide on Greenland in 2017. Earlier this year, a Youtube surfaced from the village: Uncut and Unseen: Greenland Tsunami (First Wave to Largest Wave in 6 mins.). The village is an image from an ice age, nothing tropical whatsoever, but one clearly sees the different stages of water moving in and out:
The Wiki has about this even:
On 17 June 2017, a landslide measuring 300 m × 1,100 m (980 ft × 3,610 ft) fell about 1 km (3,300 ft) into the Karrak fiord, causing a tsunami that hit Nuugaatsiaq.[2][3] Four people were killed, nine injured and eleven buildings were washed into the water.[2][3][4][5] In the beginning the tsunami had a height of 90 m (300 ft), but it was significantly lower once it hit the settlement.[3] Initially it was unclear if the landslide was caused by a small earthquake (magnitude 4),[2][5] but later it was confirmed that the landslide had caused the tremors.[3]
Records of tsunamis
The page about Tsunami Events divides them into categories.
Looking at Tsunamis 2020-2021, I found
The list from 2021 contains earthquakes mainly and the associated parameters like their epicenter, their size, and if they led to a tsunami warning, and then how high they were. It is not clear to me how they mark tsunamis not caused by earthquakes, perhaps somebody knows?
2021 tsunami list.png
Mostly a tsunami is a minor issue, but occasionally it can be very serious, as the example from December 26, 2004 showed, but also the March 11, 2011, event in Japan, which destroyed the nuclear power plant at Fukushima. For this reason, it is good to be cautious and know the signs.
 
How a tsunami moves

Tsunamis create waves and the waves move.

A while ago Dr.Hans-Joachim Zillmer suggested something about Tsunamis that I found rather intriguing and worthy of investigation:

And on he goes! Zillmer, quote: „A Tsunami is not a wave, it is an energetic effect!“ Sounds crazy right, think again!

Here is the section where Zillmer talks about what he means (german):


In summary, what Zillmer suggest is basically the following:

1 = A Tsunami is not a wave, it is an energetic effect

2 = It is difficult if not impossible that a tsunami is created by things like earth plates at the bottom of the ocean being pushed up or down or against each other

3 = let's say a giant tsunami is triggered in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean; The water itself doesn't move at all for thousands of kilometers; instead, what is happening is similar to what happens in a Newton's cradle. See also here. Take a look, what happens to the balls in the middle, they don't move. That means, for example, that if you were in the middle of the ocean (on a ship or anywhere under the ocean itself) when the giant tsunami of the 2004 was triggered, you wouldn't have noticed any movement of the water. If you had dived and floated in the water there in the middle of the ocean, you wouldn't have been moved a millimeter by the tsunami. All those water molecules stay stationary (they don't move), instead they all simultaneously make a very tiny oval movement which nudges the adjacent molecule (very similar to the Newton's cradle example) to carry on the energy (no movement, but the energy moves through the molecules instead). The water continues to be still: no water has moved from the "epicenter" of the tsunami anywhere. Instead, energy is carried through the stationary water/molecules.

4 = There are no waves on the open oceans caused by Tsunamis

5 = A gas eruption (or I guess any other trigger that triggers the following) excites/stimulates all the water molecules to oscillate simultaneously within a several kilometers high water column

5 = A tsunami only becomes a wave on shore or near the shore when kinetic energy is transformed into potential energy (when the kinetic energy of the tsunami hits a continental slope for example). Only then water begins to move and creates a wave (size and how it behaves largely dependent on the makeup of the shore (shallow for example))

6 = The oval effect of the water molecules also explains how and why water is receding before a wave from a tsunami comes inland

7 = Consequently, Zillmer suggest that all the sensors that are operating in the oceans "to measure/predict" a tsunami are practically useless if they don't detect (take into account) that described effect. For example; buoys in the oceans that don't take those factors into consideration.
 
A while ago Dr.Hans-Joachim Zillmer suggested something about Tsunamis that I found rather intriguing and worthy of investigation:
And on he goes! Zillmer, quote: „A Tsunami is not a wave, it is an energetic effect!“ Sounds crazy right, think again!
Thank you Cosmos for introducing this freethinking engineer. He has published many book about his thoughts over the last 20 years, and the link Cosmos gives leads to the whole thread. In this post, I shall try to address some of he idea Dr. Zillmers brings up.

Below are two of Dr. Zillmer's slides. In the first he talks about gas and oil being a result of abiotic synthesis:

Screenshot 2021-11-21 094508.png
In the second slide, he mentions the formation of tsunamis and explain them as a result of gas breaking free from the ocean floor. In the image, there is mention of an electrical discharge.
Screenshot 2021-11-21 094638.png
His suggestion is that gas is released from the bottom, and that this moves the water in such a way that an energetic effect is created, which he relates to Newton's Cradle as Cosmos explained. Here is the screenshot:
Screenshot 2021-11-21 104420.png
The question is if this explanation can explain tsunamis? Does it work if not all the time, sometimes, or perhaps not really? Below I try to clarify what I understand so far.

First the statement: „A Tsunami is not a wave, it is an energetic effect!“
A tsunami only becomes a wave on shore or near the shore when kinetic energy is transformed into potential energy (when the kinetic energy of the tsunami hits a continental slope for example). Only then water begins to move and creates a wave (size and how it behaves largely dependent on the makeup of the shore (shallow for example))
A casual observer of a video would agree that there is wave after wave, the waves rise and fall, the first wave is often not the worst. How and where does the kinetic energy become a wave?

I can only agree a tsunami is an energetic effect. In the first post, I wrote: "Tsunamis are secondary events that can happen for a variety of reasons." That was admittedly vague, and I did not emphasize on the physics of it, but mainly the destruction and casualties. Perhaps it was a bit like focusing on the light that a lamp emits, whether sufficient, insufficient, harmful or not, without bothering about how that light came there in the first place. Or as another example, commenting on a volcano eruption while skipping the details of the vulcanologist, but talking about destroyed houses and roads.

The problem of Zillmer's bobbles
I can't understand how Zilmer envisions the bobbles being able to transfer the energy to the water that later somehow translates into a tsunami wave that hits land.

Gas and pressures in the deep oceans
First, I'm not sure that I understood the image with the tsunami correctly because where does electricity or charge come in. Is there an electric discharge that heats up the gas? I tried to look up gas emissions from the sea. Is he thinking of something like this:
Huge amounts of greenhouse gases lurk in the oceans, and could make warming far worse
Stores of methane and CO2 in the world's seas are in a strange, icy state, and the waters are warming, creating a ticking carbon time bomb.
For every 33 feet (ca. 10 m)/10.06 m of ocean water, the pressure increases by one atmosphere. Compressed natural gas is stored under a pressure of roughly 200-250 atm if converted, from the following wiki information:
Compressed natural gas is a fuel gas made of petrol which is mainly composed of methane (CH4), compressed to less than 1% of the volume it occupies at standard atmospheric pressure. It is stored and distributed in hard containers at a pressure of 20–25 MPa (2,900–3,600 psi), usually in cylindrical or spherical shapes.
This pressure is achieved at 2000-2500 meters, which is rather deep. Pure methane needs 32 MPa or 316 Atm to remain a liquid at 21 degrees, that would take us to 3200 meters.

However, that is only considering the water as a pressure factor. The density of the sea sediments would be higher and for every meter we measure below the bottom the pressure would increase, as would the temperature, but the latter initially not too quickly. Within the first 100 meters of seal floor, we could easily add up another 30 atm of pressure.

It is cold in the deep ocean — less pressure needed to keep a gas liquid
Deep in the sea the temperature is lower, so the required pressure to keep the gases dissolved would be less. Here is an image of the middle latitude temperature profile in the ocean:

sm_temperature_depth.jpg
In spite of the depth and the pressure, Zillmer suggest that it can break loose, and that electricity is involved. I could imagine that a large electric charge could create currents that would heat up the rocks and the water so that the gas under pressure could be released. Another option would be that some disturbance excites the gas dissolved in the liquid. I don't know the details of it, but I take the example of a Champagne bottle being shaken vigorously before being opened though in the case of the Champagne remains in the bottle, because the bottle is build to withstand the pressure. But are such scenarios realistic?

How do deep ocean volcanoes behave with their emissions
I tried to look up deep ocean volcanic explosions and while they do happen the usual degassing does not occur in the deep, at least to a different extent than for surface volcanoes. How volcanoes explode deep under the ocean. It seems down there the Zillmers theory does encounter problems.

How fast do gas bobbles move in water
Parts of the oceans are not very deep. How would the bobbles move in the water, if they could? It turns out someone made a video describing a study:
Observations of bubbles in natural seep flares at MC 118 and GC 600 using in situ quantitative imaging Popularized here: The Fate of Hydrocarbons Seeping from the Ocean Floor
The study abstract reads:
This paper reports the results of quantitative imaging using a stereoscopic, high-speed camera system at two natural gas seep sites in the northern Gulf of Mexico during the Gulf Integrated Spill Research G07 cruise in July 2014. The cruise was conducted on the E/V Nautilus using the ROV Hercules for in situ observation of the seeps as surrogates for the behavior of hydrocarbon bubbles in subsea blowouts. The seeps originated between 890 and 1190 m depth in Mississippi Canyon block 118 and Green Canyon block 600. The imaging system provided qualitative assessment of bubble behavior (e.g., breakup and coalescence) and verified the formation of clathrate hydrate skins on all bubbles above 1.3 m altitude. Quantitative image analysis yielded the bubble size distributions, rise velocity, total gas flux, and void fraction, with most measurements conducted from the seafloor to an altitude of 200 m. Bubble size distributions fit well to lognormal distributions, with median bubble sizes between 3 and 4.5 mm. Measurements of rise velocity fluctuated between two ranges: fast-rising bubbles following helical-type trajectories and bubbles rising about 40% slower following a zig-zag pattern. Rise speed was uncorrelated with hydrate formation, and bubbles following both speeds were observed at both sites. Ship-mounted multibeam sonar provided the flare rise heights, which corresponded closely with the boundary of the hydrate stability zone for the measured gas compositions. The evolution of bubble size with height agreed well with mass transfer rates predicted by equations for dirty bubbles.
The rising speeds were listed as around 13.3 and 21.9 cm/s which is not a lot, that is less than a km per hour. I had imagined that the gas bobbles would expand as they go up, but it turns out some gas gets dissolved, so the small bobbles shrink. If Zillmer's theory of gas induced tsunamis is correct, one might expect that there would be tsunamis in areas where there is a lot of oil and gas at or below the sea floor, like the Gulf of Mexico. The study I quoted was done there, the bobbles were small, and we don't see many tsunamis there.

What about very big bobbles
Zillmer might counter, that the study only deals with small bobbles, which seems to be the normal way of seeping in the Gulf of Mexico at least, but maybe there are some big bobbles somewhere.

However, a question is if super large bobbles would even be stable? It turns out even fairly small bobbles are not stable. A paper from 1987 discusses The stability of a large gas bubble rising through liquid? With a lot of math, but to give an idea here is a paragraph:

Observations of the maximum volume of air bubbles that remain intact in five different liquids in a wide tank were made by Grace et al. (1978), and table 2 shows the relevant physical properties of these five liquids. In the last two columns values of the Reynolds number and Bond number for the bubbles of maximum size are shown. Unfortunately for the present purpose it appears from the shape-regime diagram compiled by Clift et al. (1978, figure 2.5) that only for the first of these liquids, ethylene glycol, were the values of the Reynolds and Bond numbers large enough for the bubbles to be likely to have a clear spherical-cap shape. For this liquid Grace et al. give 119 cm3 as the observed maximum volume of bubbles remaining intact, and for a bubble of spherical-cap shape with a semi-cone angle of 50" this corresponds to R, = 7.0 cm. This observation is compatible with the curve for AC = 1.25 (which is appropriate for ethylene glycol) in figure 10 if 5 = 0.082 and if the magnitude of the initial disturbance was rather large. Grace et al. say that they allowed 'at least one minute ... between injections' of bubbles of known volume in a tank 46 cm in diameter and 2.8 m deep.
There was a report from 1944 about R, =15 which could mean a bobble with a volume of one liter, but it is still very limited.

Zillmer mentions Newtons Cradle and claims that an earthquake can not generate a tsunami. I think this is contradictory, because what if that first ball that swings, setting the cradle in motion was an earthquake? One could also say that the analogy does not hold, because the water is liquid while the steel balls are not, but that may be too rigid. I tried to see where the analogy would lead. Looking up the details of Newtons Cradle, even on the Wiki, one finds a simple solution and a more complete solution, each having their ranges where they better explain what goes on. It turns out the complex solution includes concepts that involve Hooke's force that can describe spring oscillations which in an x-y diagram looks very much like a wave, even though they only move up and down when we look at them. On the Russian Wiki for oscillation period, there is an animation.

Determining the velocities[4][5][6] for the case of one ball striking four initially-touching balls is found by modeling the balls as weights with non-traditional springs on their colliding surfaces. Most materials, like steel, that are efficiently elastic approximately follow Hooke's force law for springs, {\displaystyle F=k\cdot x}
{\displaystyle F=k\cdot x}
, but because the area of contact for a sphere increases as the force increases, colliding elastic balls follow Hertz's adjustment to Hooke's law, {\displaystyle F=k\cdot x^{1.5}}
{\displaystyle F=k\cdot x^{1.5}}
. This and Newton's law for motion ({\displaystyle F=m\cdot a}
{\displaystyle F=m\cdot a}
) are applied to each ball, giving five simple but interdependent differential equations that are solved numerically.
The problem is that the water is not a solid body.
On the other hand, Hooke's law is an accurate approximation for most solid bodies, as long as the forces and deformations are small enough.

The use of the the analogy with Newtons Cradle has limitations and one come upon Hooke's Law that describes and oscillation. How Zillmer can conclude, there is no wave, I fail to understand. If we throw a stone, there is waves. If we have a landslide falling into the sea there are big wave to the extent that they create tsunamis. If you have an asteroid impact then also there are waves. Under physical oceanography there are many pages about waves if one scrolls down.

From a Russian scientist
I tried to look up what professionals say. There is a book, the Physics of Tsunamis by Boris Levin and Mikhail Nosov, from Springer. Noticing they were Russians, I looked for something in the original language and found from one of the authors a small booklet from the publisher, teach-in.ru From this booklet I have taken a few images to give a perspective.

One says that the speed of the crest of the energy is equal to the square root of the gravitational constant multiplied by the depth of the ocean. If the depth it four km he gets about 200 m/s. He does not explain it, but if one insert and approximates it is:
square root of (10 m/(s^2)x4000 m = square root of 40,000 (m^2/s^2) =200 m/s. This is 1 km every 5 seconds, so 12 km in a minute, and 720 km in an hour. The wavelength is very long and that can explain why some time passes between each wave hitting a beach. That the water rises can be explained by the speed of the wave being broken by the shallow seabed. If we step off a quick "rolling pedestrian street" in an airport, we are also thrown a bit forward when we get off.

The image from lecture 2, page 14 shows the reasons for tsunamis: with the red being seaquakes (79), green, landslides or underwater landslides (6), yellow, volcanoes (5%), turqouise, meteorological (3 %), violette meteorites, no data, unknown grey 7 %,
1637507697434.png
One notices that there are no data for meteorites, but 7 % for unknown, which also could include some monster bobble, if they exist as the illustration from Zillmer would suggest. Nosov, the author, claims that the 2011 quake displaced 100 cubic km of water. If 100 km^3 are displaced something happens, as illustrated in this video of a tsunami being generated by an earth quake, or maybe Natural Phenomena: Seaquake
called seaquake. How accurate the model in the video is one can discuss. For a small model, notice how the level of water changes when you get in and out of a bathtub. Something has to give way, and it is not your body.

On page 20, Nosov remarks that since the planet is 70 % water, and since there are many impact craters on land, and a few have been located at sea, more much have fallen in the sea and each could have created a tsunami:
Screenshot 2021-11-21 165116.png

6 = The oval effect of the water molecules also explains how and why water is receding before a wave from a tsunami comes inland
Or it might be better explained by a wave with a long wavelength. From the Wiki
All waves have a positive and negative peak; that is, a ridge and a trough. In the case of a propagating wave like a tsunami, either may be the first to arrive. If the first part to arrive at the shore is the ridge, a massive breaking wave or sudden flooding will be the first effect noticed on land. However, if the first part to arrive is a trough, a drawback will occur as the shoreline recedes dramatically, exposing normally submerged areas. The drawback can exceed hundreds of metres, and people unaware of the danger sometimes remain near the shore to satisfy their curiosity or to collect fish from the exposed seabed.

A typical wave period for a damaging tsunami is about twelve minutes. Thus, the sea recedes in the drawback phase, with areas well below sea level exposed after three minutes. For the next six minutes, the wave trough builds into a ridge which may flood the coast, and destruction ensues. During the next six minutes, the wave changes from a ridge to a trough, and the flood waters recede in a second drawback. Victims and debris may be swept into the ocean. The process repeats with succeeding waves.

7 = Consequently, Zillmer suggest that all the sensors that are operating in the oceans "to measure/predict" a tsunami are practically useless if they don't detect (take into account) that described effect. For example; buoys in the oceans that don't take those factors into consideration.
Does this suggestion match with observations? From an observational point of view, if the sensors they have, can catch some tsunamis and lead to correct predictions in many case, then that should be okay. Here is an image of what the system looks like. Apparently the system is only installed in some areas.
Screenshot 2021-11-21 191826.png
One can read about the project under NOAA Center for Tsunami Research - Tsunami Forecasting
There have been efforts to make the detection better by using ships and high precision GPS.
New Science: Using Ships For Tsunami Warning
by James Foster, University of Hawaii (TheConversation) Racing across ocean basins at speeds over 500 miles per hour, tsunamis can wreak devastation along coastlines thousands of miles from their origin. Our modern tsunami detection networks reliably detect these events hours in advance and provide warning of their arrivals, but predicting the exact size and impact is more difficult.
The potential solution to this problem came about by chance. In 2010, I was running an experiment with colleagues using high-accuracy GPS on the UH research vessel Kilo Moana. On its way to Guam, the Kilo Moana was passed by the tsunami generated by the magnitude 8.8 earthquake in Maule, Chile, on February 27 of that year.

In the deep ocean this tsunami wave was only about 10 cm (about 4 inches) high with a wavelength of more than 300 miles. Its passage would normally have remained undetected, lost amid the several meters of heave of the ship in the regular waves. However, careful analysis of the data collected by the GPS proved that the system we had in place accurately recorded the tsunami signal.
A wave length of 300 miles is 480 km! A lot of water can hide behind a swell of 10 cm when the wave approaches land and the main swell is still many km out and many minutes away, but the drawback of water from the beach has begun. Scarry!
 
After the last post, I took a closer look at the Russian booklet, though I realized, I had to begin from the beginning, which led to other materials that explained the concepts better. Below, I have tried to organize what I encountered.

Water waves, understood as a having dual wave properties
In science classes, they teach that water waves exhibit a combination of two basic wave forms, longitudinal and transverse waves. In study notes from PennState College of Engineering, there is an explanation with animations:
Water waves are an example of waves that involve a combination of both longitudinal and transverse motions.
Longitudinal waves:
Screenshot 2021-11-23 084406.png
In the animation, one can observe the wave moving forward, while the particles move back and forth.

Transverse waves:
Screenshot 2021-11-23 084430.png
In the transverse wave simulation, the particles move up and down.
Described with words, in longitudinal waves like sound waves "the vibrations are parallel to the direction of wave travel"
In transverse waves, like electromagnetic waves, "the vibrations are at right angles to the direction of wave travel." An example of a transverse wave is an audience wave, as mentioned:
Yep, the water molecules in this video remained on top of their seat. ;-D
But if the water molecules do not only behave like transverse waves and move up-and-down with respect to the direction of the horizontal moving wave, how can the longitudinal, back-and-forth movement enter? The explanation given is that it enters, because the water molecules perform a circular motion. This motion combines and up-and-down, as in 12-6-12-6- on an analog watch, with a back-and-forth (9-3-9-3-).
The notes continue to comment on its own animation,
As a wave travels through the waver, the particles travel in clockwise circles. The radius of the circles decreases as the depth into the water increases.
The animation can not be moved, but three images might help if one follows the yellow dots in the circles clockwise and imagine it continues:
Screenshot 2021-11-22 114107.png
Screenshot 2021-11-22 114144.png
Screenshot 2021-11-22 114221.png
Another animation can be found in this video: Waves on the surface of water HD, which has an explanation using different words:
The waves on the surface of the water are neither longitudinal nor transverse. We can see in animation that red ball, which simulates the molecule of the water surface, moves in a circle path. So, the wave on the water surface is the superposition of transverse and longitudinal motions of the molecules. The molecules on the water surface move under the action of surface tension and gravity. Next animation simulates the wave motion of the molecules in the surface layer of water (or other liquid). If the amplitude of this wave is small, then every molecule moves in a circle path. The radii of these circles are diminishing with depth, so the balls in bottom part of animation are still.
Even if the principles of water waves remain, there are nuances which helps to understand how tsunami waves differ in their behavior from ordinary wind waves.

Deep-water waves and shallow-water waves
From notes to a physics course from the University of Tennessee at Knoxville:
We distinguish between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves. The distinction between deep and shallow water waves has nothing to do with absolute water depth. It is determined by the ratio of the water's depth to the wavelength of the wave.
[...]
The water molecules of a deep-water wave move in a circular orbit. The diameter of the orbit decreases with the distance from the surface. The motion is felt down to a distance of approximately one wavelength, where the wave's energy becomes negligible.
[...]
The orbits of the molecules of shallow-water waves are more elliptical. [...] Tides and tsunamis are shallow-water waves, even in the deep ocean. The deep ocean is shallow with respect to a wave with a wavelength longer than twice the ocean's depth.
These MIT notes give equations for both types of waves and has a number of instructive drawings. For example, there is one that shows the amplitude of a wave to be half the distance from the wave crest to the wave trough. If the amplitude of a tsunami wave is only 10 cm, then there is 20 cm from the highest to the lowest point.

Illustrations of deep-water waves and shallow-water waves
There is a video Physics of the tsunami — Tsunami in human life in Russian by Mikhail Nosov, the author of the book, I mentioned in the last post: In the video, he shows an animation with a deep-water wave.
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The next is a shallow-water wave, as in a tsunami or tidal wave. The whole mass of water is involved, though there is less vertical mixing going on in the deep, because the movements become more and more elliptical, or one could say there is more of the back-and-forth, than the up-and-down movement.
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The next image, also from the Russian video, shows two pilots above an ocean. The wave is very long and flat, from 100 km to a 1000 km, and the height small, although the artist has exaggerated, and left out the trough of the wave. One pilot (left) observes a tsunami, the other (right) does not. In the image, the velocity, c, is that of the crest of the wave. U, is explained in the notes as the velocity of a unit of water, in its circular motion. I translate it to mean the velocity of a molecule of water. In this example, it is only 0.05 m or 5 cm per second. From his drawing and numbers we notice he used a value of the amplitude =1 m, a depth of 4000 m, and g was approximated to 10 m/s^2. With a calculator, one can check his work.
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Comparing the last two equations, I then arrived at the relation U/c= A/H. It is another way of saying, that if one has a tsunami wave amplitude of 1 m, and an ocean depth of 4000 m, then the movement of the unit of water, is going to be a tiny fraction of the velocity of the crest. On the other hand, when the depth decreases, the speed of the unit of water increases.

The next image shows how the waves of a tsunami build up and gain height as they approach a beach.
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Further away from the beach, the waves are still rather flat. As they approach the beach and the water meets resistance from the ocean floor, the water builds up behind the crests, and they become higher than they used to be. The drawing is a bit misleading, if one does not notice the measure of 150 km. In reality, the water waves will not be closely spaced as usual waves. And unless the waves are very powerful, they may not even appear as a clearly visible walls of water, as the drawing indicates, though they will be higher than in the open sea. If one goes on Youtube, there are many examples of inconspicuous tsunami waves. The speed of a tsunami that hits land is given as 40 km/h by this site. There is no source, but judging from images, this speed should be within range. If one investigated it further, one can expect it depends on the ocean floor and its depth near a beach or harbor. Somewhere, it was mentioned that 80 % of all tsunamis are related to the ring of fire, and that is most likely how the Russia scientists became involved, because Russia is close, where it borders the Pacific Ocean.

Mathematical modelling of tsunami waves
As I was looking into the subject, I came across a few papers. It quickly becomes very complicated, and though I do not understand most of it, here are a few impressions:
The Physics of Ocean Waves (for physicists and surfers) This paper is general, but there is not much about tsunamis in particular, though he does mention them. It is still a fascinating presentation, which in places can be appreciated, even if some terminology is left out:
Nature and earth systems abound with fractals and systems that scale. Scaling in the ocean is very important for understanding some situations. Turbulent waters will have small waves on top of larger waves on top of giant waves. Referring to Figures 6 and 7, there would be some proportionality factor between the Fourier peaks that could quantify the scaling. Ocean currents or geological structures, coastlines and ocean bottoms can have fractal nature as well. In the next section we will briefly explore one example of scaling; the mystery of turbulence.
Physical model for tsunamis waves He uses an apparently simple model with an approximation to a transversal wave. His result is off by quite a bit, at least if I compare his results with what others get, even if he himself thinks it is not bad, but without actually making a comparison! His discussion is limited, (and his English), but what I still like is the approach. Sometimes one does not need all the math in the world to begin thinking about a problem.
Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment, A new paper that gives an idea of the math and terms used in the field. They, scientists from Russia and Taiwan, analyze some data they have generated.
Mathematical modelling of tsunami waves by Denys Dutykh, a French PhD work. Very advanced work, as one might expect. One encounters terms from the paper above and many more. I don't understand anything, except that it illustrates an attempt to model the complexity of a natural phenomenon.
The 2004 Sumatra-Andaman Earthquake and Tsunami in the Indian Ocean
This paper analyzes a very specific event, and based on that reaches some conclusions, which are worth mentioning and easily accessible:
6. Conclusions
(i) The 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake, the largest event in the last 40 years, caused the worst tsunami disaster. The 1960 Chilean earthquake also caused trans-Pacific tsunami damage.
(ii) Seismological developments since 1960 make it possible to analyze seismic data in real time to estimate earthquake size, type and tsunami potential for the purpose of tsunami warning.
(iii) Tsunami generation and propagation can be numerically simulated on actual bathymetry. Tsunami numerical simulations are used for tsunami research, warning system and hazard assessments.
(iv) Past tsunamis can be studied by historic and geologic data. Data from such paleoseismological studies can be used for probabilistic estimates of future earthquakes and tsunamis.
(v) Tsunami warning systems, hazard assessments, education and awareness are all important to reduce tsunami damage.
In the above excerpt, there was a term worth dwelling on, "trans-Pacific tsunami damage." It relates to tsunamis that cross (trans) the Pacific Ocean. On this subject, Nosov gives examples.

When tsunamis hit very distant shores
In Physics of Tsunamis by Boris Levin and Mikhail Nosov, from Springer, there is page 220 in the discussion of the tsunami of December 26, 2004:
Data on tsunamis in the remote zone revealed that, unlike manifestations near the source, the maximum wave amplitude was not associated with the leading wave. In the North Atlantic and at the North of the Pacific Ocean maximum wave heights were observed with delays from several hours up to several days after the onset of the tsunami front (Fig. 5.9). It is interesting to note that at Callao (Peru), situated 19,000 km from the source, the waves were higher than on the Coconut islands, lying significantly closer (1,700 km). Moreover, the tsunami amplitude at Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) was also greater, while in this case the waves had to cross not only the Indian but also the Atlantic Ocean (longitudinally) and in doing so to cover over 24,000 km.
Now, consider a significant meteor impact in a deep ocean, where more water is displaced than in a shallow sea, or consider a major landslide in the ocean or into the ocean. From the above example, it follows, that the resulting tsunamis in some circumstances could affect the seas and shores for several days. This is something to take into consideration even if one is far away from an event, but is near the sea, and not high above it.

If one is on the beach ⛱️ or near an area where tsunamis 🌊 can occur
Before ending this post, becoming practical might be a good way to end. The Red Cross has a page about tsunami preparedness. It is more rare one will need the idea from this travel site article. They say that if one gets surprised by a tsunami while swimming, it is safer to save energy and attempt floating, or hold on to something that can float, rather than trying to work against the current. I am sure it also helps to be a lucky and good swimmer. 🏊‍♀️🏊‍♂️. If a tsunami hits, it is better to be out of the way. This can be a few km away from the beach, and high enough above it, and oddly enough a safe place is also the deep sea, where the amplitude of a tsunami is mostly insignificant.
 
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