Rich
The Living Force
freesurfer said:I' ve make my training in switzerland, so very "square-head" for the details of completions, you know..
Out of interest, what training did you do?
freesurfer said:I' ve make my training in switzerland, so very "square-head" for the details of completions, you know..
Citation de: freesurfer le septembre 19, 2013, 09:34:13 pm
I' ve make my training in switzerland, so very "square-head" for the details of completions, you know..
Out of interest, what training did you do?
Spot on. Very inspiring, especially the quality of workmanship.
I'ts my passion .. It's my problem !!
I'm tiler-mosaist and love it.
freesurfer said:Citation de: freesurfer le septembre 19, 2013, 09:34:13 pm
I' ve make my training in switzerland, so very "square-head" for the details of completions, you know..
Out of interest, what training did you do?
so just a normal and simple "Tiles seller" ;)
LQB said:So, now I need to insulate that exterior facing wall and ceiling structure near it. Unfortunately, 24 feet of that wall is covered by finished kitchen. So there are three treatments:
1) thin metal-backed closed cell foam for the exposed wall (with cedar to follow)
2) blown foam on the ceiling near the wall
3) blown cellulose behind the kitchen wall from above and below
Remediation is a b*tch!
Although not design-related, a year after moving in we discovered Phorid flies coming into the house via drain and/or vent lines. After snaking the main drain line from the septic with a camera, we discovered a cracked PVC pipe and questionable coupling (poor workmanship by the guy I had do the drain lines). This was fixed with an epoxy/felt liner installed under air pressure. The problem is there was more than a year of leakage before the fix.
The larger Phorids are gone but there is still a very small (very hard to see even in flight) fly that is apparently attracted to CO2 and warm moist places (ie mouth and nose). They are no bother unless quietly reading or sleeping. It also appears that they can set up shop in your nose and continue breeding. I have yet to get one of these buggers under a microscope for identification prior to extermination. Anyway, the moral of this story - get the drains done right!
freesurfer said:Hi LQB,
remediation is.. Ho yeah!
well, the drains stories are always something... always.
That also depends what kind of constrution you are doing :P
Anyway your problems are not really bigs problems, but.. I know.
For the concrete wall, for the cold and so on,
an other idea is just make an other bric's (or earthbric) wall outside, with rockwool (8cm) between the two walls, and use somethings like sheet of foam on the edges (windows,door) and also on ceiling near the wall, like this one http://us.wedi.de/_shared/_pdf/us/wedi-Building-Panel.pdf
Now just a question about the drain,
you mean the main drain goes in the septic tank?
But anyway, I don't think the flies come from the drain,( my 2 cents) the drain have no direct connection with the house..
Saludos
freesurfer said:Hi LQB,
remediation is.. Ho yeah!
well, the drains stories are always something... always.
That also depends what kind of constrution you are doing :P
Anyway your problems are not really bigs problems, but.. I know.
For the concrete wall, for the cold and so on,
an other idea is just make an other bric's (or earthbric) wall outside, with rockwool (8cm) between the two walls, and use somethings like sheet of foam on the edges (windows,door) and also on ceiling near the wall, like this one http://us.wedi.de/_shared/_pdf/us/wedi-Building-Panel.pdf
Now just a question about the drain,
you mean the main drain goes in the septic tank?
But anyway, I don't think the flies come from the drain,( my 2 cents) the drain have no direct connection with the house..
Saludos
voyageur said:Fwiw, remembering back when discussing foam insulated blocks for exterior walls and the problems of heat transfer. There was an engineer (article i read) who also did not think they were a good idea for this type of house. Given what you have said, should cold temps remain or come back, interior modifications as described "may" only solve part of the problem, as the walls may still weep moisture. The walls may be covered, yet moisture may still seek and collect lower down. I do not know this for sure, yet perhaps a fix would be to apply a foam sheeting to the exterior wall to the depth of 4 ft (standard frost wall). The reason being is that "standards" for things such as "slab on ground" here in the north, require a 4ft frost wall or, a lesser depth if exterior wall is insulated with foam sheeting. Unfortunately, this would require excavation work, yet it may or may not be easier? The thinking here is that the frost layer is protected while still maintaining the heat/cool transferee aspects below 4 feet of your original design.
LQB said:If I had it to do over, I would certainly insulate the foundation on the exposed wall side. The way things are right now is that there is a very large concrete pad poured right up to the exterior wall (and retaining walls) across the entire length of the wall.
Another thing I would do is seal the slab entirely before doing any interior finish work - I'd love to do another one from scratch!
Hi freesurfer,
Yes, they are not big problems - just painful/costly since I have to work around the existing finish work (kitchen).
I can't insulate the outside of the exposed wall since it has a stacked stone facade. But most of that interior wall is bare so the metal backed closed cell foam (R-16) glued to the wall should work fine and provide a good vapor barrier - in fact this is already up on all of this wall interior (except about 20 feet of kitchen wall). The sprayed foam will work the ceiling that borders this wall.
and maybe the flies are food for usand this fungus is food for the flies.
freesurfer said:Well, I understand that the job inside is done , but before making the job where is the kitchen, make the test outside on this area.. and really if the stones are not well glued or already disbonded (with this colds days), hear me .. remediate outside, remove the stone of this part, put a WEDI of 2" (5cm minimum) glued and assure the installation of the wedi panels (or a same product) with straw, treat all the surface with a flex tile adhesive including a reinforcement mesh, (not just the joints) and after you can also put on that a waterproof layer, like sikalastic or whatever is compatible with the stone or tile flex adhesive..
and install again your stone on that.. that's 100%, I've done a lot of project with this material, like sauna, refrigeration room etc.. and never one problem, no leak..
Anyway if you have already buy all the rest of the material, make it like you decide , but I must said to you that is not a big job and we CAN make it, if you find a professional, is maybe one or max two weeks work, and 100% sure.
Nothing really new Domi, but I have been telling folks that there is really no need to bury the structure to gain the benefits. You can eliminate tons of steel by earth-berming on 3 sides and using a very well insulated conventional roof. You keep the rebar and 5000 psi concrete but, for the roof, use a good steel truss structure with metal roof and foam insulation plus conventional batting. Pitching the roof to the rear allows you to collect water runoff at the rear and divert it away from the bermed structure. You still must make sure that all points around the house have positive drainage away. I have had no problems with water intrusion - even after major downpours.LQB,
I've been thinking about you and your wonderful home recently and I was wondering if there's anything that you've learned now that you've lived there for quite a few years. Any issues that have come up other than what you already described a few years ago?
D.