Fix laptop

Well, when the laptop was functional it was fast so I think the issue now is a defect either with the processor or something else. It actually came with McAfee pre-installed. And there were no issues.

These are the basic requirements for Windows 10:

Processor:1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster compatible processor or System on a Chip (SoC)
RAM:1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit
Hard drive size:32GB or larger hard disk
Note: See below under “More information on hard drive space to install or update Windows 10” for more details.
Graphics card:Compatible with DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver
Display:800x600
Internet Connection:Internet connectivity is necessary to perform updates and to download and take advantage of some features. Windows 10 Pro in S mode, Windows 10 Pro Education in S mode, Windows 10 Education in S mode, and Windows 10 Enterprise in S mode require an internet connection during the initial device setup (Out of Box Experience or OOBE), as well as either a Microsoft account (MSA) or Azure Activity Directory (AAD) account. Switching a device out of Windows 10 in S mode also requires internet connectivity. Learn more about S mode here.
 
No, the CPU is most likely not defect. CPUs never break. If it would, the system would not boot at all. It wouldn't be functional for a second.

I read on the net that 4G of RAM should be fine.
Mostly not. Depends what you are doing with it. Running a browser? Then it's not enough.

The battery was at balanced but I switched it to best performance.
Not recommended at all. It won't run faster, just hotter. This setting has more to do with reducing latency and sleep states.
 
Well, when the laptop was functional it was fast so I think the issue now is a defect either with the processor or something else. It actually came with McAfee pre-installed. And there were no issues.

These are the basic requirements for Windows 10:

Processor:1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster compatible processor or System on a Chip (SoC)
RAM:1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit
Hard drive size:32GB or larger hard disk
Note: See below under “More information on hard drive space to install or update Windows 10” for more details.
Graphics card:Compatible with DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver
Display:800x600
Internet Connection:Internet connectivity is necessary to perform updates and to download and take advantage of some features. Windows 10 Pro in S mode, Windows 10 Pro Education in S mode, Windows 10 Education in S mode, and Windows 10 Enterprise in S mode require an internet connection during the initial device setup (Out of Box Experience or OOBE), as well as either a Microsoft account (MSA) or Azure Activity Directory (AAD) account. Switching a device out of Windows 10 in S mode also requires internet connectivity. Learn more about S mode here.

Yes, minimum requirements for running a blank Windows 10 installation and nothing more.
Booting the system up and leaving it alone. You need further resources in order to run some software on top of Windows.
 
You should look at the cpu usage by process, like you've shown here, and go from there. search the web about the processes that take over your cpu.
For example the 'runtime broker' process shown in your screenshot may be doing to much. You can try disabling some of it like this:
settings > notifications and actions > [ ] get tips, ticks, and suggestions..
and reboot.
c8196b603f82bafd08f98542918306c6.png
 
I ran 'reset this PC' back to factory install, (which was windows 10) and the keyboard issue didn't resolve so I ran it again but this time downloading windows instead, but the keyboard has the same issue.

No, the CPU is most likely not defect. CPUs never break. If it would, the system would not boot at all. It wouldn't be functional for a second.
Well, the AI said that a CPU can be broken and still function. So, I don't know what to think.

Mostly not. Depends what you are doing with it. Running a browser? Then it's not enough.
In the past that was no issue. I can watch videos on Youtube with it just fine once the window fully loads. I don't use any games or programs, just browsing. I think it ought to be able to handle that.

You should look at the cpu usage by process, like you've shown here, and go from there. search the web about the processes that take over your cpu.
For example the 'runtime broker' process shown in your screenshot may be doing to much. You can try disabling some of it like this:
settings > notifications and actions > [ ] get tips, ticks, and suggestions..
and reboot.
The screenshot was lagging, I had closed the web browser some 5-10 seconds prior to the snapshot, and that seems to make the CPU go 100%. Like I said any process that seems more active goes very high but they are not one process but seems like it can by any random process.
 
Shnagfnie.

CPU is very rarely been damaged. Dont touched it.

The best and most simple would be if you can take the laptop to service shop and ask if they can do a total reformating of the hard drive. After that you will ned to install Windows again, but if there was some software problem, it will be solved with preformating. (its not reset to factory settings, its total wipe out of the hard disk.)

What you can do on your own go to: Start - Control Panel (can be in some other place, depends on Windows version. If you cant see it on "Start" try Settings.) Find: Administrative Tools, then click: Free up disk space. It will open the windows which will ask you do you want free space on disk C. Tick all the boxes and click yes. Then it will show you small window while the process is working (could take some minutes). After that go back and click: Defragment your hard drive. Folow the offered stepes.

After that it should work faster. But Celeron is weak processor, although it should be good for music and movies (and only for that).
 
186 is quite a lot of processes, no wonder that your laptop struggles, unless it's hardware issue!

What comes to services(some of them appear as processes as well), one way to test, how disabling (or setting to manual start) some of them in Windows affects the performance.

But how to know, what services to change, without 'bricking' Windows?

Black Viper has made a list(although bit outdated), which has columns for Windows default services, and services that are marked as safe to disable.

I have used similar list for Windows 7 for years to modify services after installation, both PC and an old laptop.

But anyway, if one likes to take a look, service list for Windows 10 is on the bottom of the page. It can be saved as spreadsheet also:

Black Viper's Windows 10 Service Configurations - Black Viper | BlackViper.Com
 
For what it's worth, there are numerous powershell scripts you can use to remove unwanted and rarely used "features" that come with a default windows 10 install.

If you're comfortable using windows powershell, you can "decrapify" your windows OS using the script from this github repository Windows Decrapifyer

Or copy + paste the raw script here and save somwhere as decrapify.ps1

I would inspect the script and remove anything that looks dodgy, or any crap you want to keep on you system.

Then run powershell as Administrator, and set the execution policy to unrestricted:

Set-ExecutionPolicy Unrestricted -File C:\Downloads\decrapify.ps1

Then run it

.\decrapify.ps1

The unset the execution policy to be safe

Set-ExecutionPolicy Undefined -File C:\Downloads\decrapify.ps1

It made my Windows 10 laptop run about 3 times faster.

I hope this helps
 
@Shnagfnie, I looked at your computer specs and there in lies the problem. Its a 2x Core CPU running at 1.6 GHz base clock which is simply not enough these days (even if it can burst to 2.48 Ghz). There is nothing fundamentally wrong with your laptop except that its not the right tool for the job. Just browsing websites these days require plenty of CPU and RAM due to java-scripts and media content which need to be rendered locally. You'll need to purchase something better and I would recommend minimum 4x cores and 8-16 GB RAM. Hope this helps.
 
This looks like a software issue. It's a pain in the ass and it's likely update and other processes and other software that comes pre-installed with the laptop. Push 'Ctrl+Alt+Esc' keys together to bring up Task Manager (or right-click your bottom-right time clock), and right-click Disable all options under the 'Startup' tab immediately. Reboot. (NO multi-select, unfortunately.) Then do the Ccleaner instructions at bottom; you can read through the custom clean advanced options inside there to see what it affects if you have the time/inclination; otherwise tick all and wipe away - it'll be almost like a new computer, with amnesia, and hopefully not too much brain damage [error boxes].

------

To remove unnecessary software, goto the Control Panel (type 'control' in start menu) and sort by 'Category' (top-right) and select 'Uninstall a program' (bottom-left). Then Sort by Date (click 'Installed On' column) twice to put oldest programs at the top. Then just start removing anything you don't recognize - which should be practically everything. I would recommend taking a screenshot at this point in case you desire any future missing software, and latest versions of these will always be a good thing, even if it's just to remove the old files physical location and get a new, fresh update of any necessary 3rd-party programs. It will remember your past settings, unless you specifically tell it to remove everything during uninstallation (unlikely). In doing this, even on SSD's when the install of Windows is a couple of years old at this point, it will take ages to uninstall, just wait it'll get there, and as you go along doing this the speed of the computer sometimes increases. Weird.

-------

I had typed most of the below between <<< >>> originally in response to when I saw this post a few days ago, and then the power failure hit, and I forgot about it until now, when it all popped up again. Cool. Upon re-reading it, it's too complicated, and disjointed, kinda like everything here, but I believe the only way you'll get any speed out of the old laptop is to reduce the insane Windows 10 background tasks processing all this nonsense you'll never need and never use.

<<< I normally goto Add/Remove Programs in Control Panel or Right-Click Start Menu & Select "Apps and Features" ; , if its important Windows Update will refetch it for you anyway, so don't be too afraid - but anything that is not a wireless driver can be trashed (most viciously). Any software you don;t recognize or use can be trashed. Especially on laptops, for eg. if you have Lenovo laptop you will see a LOT of lenovo shit there you can remove, weird register and photo and cd/dvd and other software that definitely slows down a lot. I get Ccleaner, which I have used for 15+ years and is literally the ONLY program that you can go nuts on the registry clean and it doesn't break your PC, hooray! Also, right-click bottom-right clock and 'task manager' and 'startup' tab in the top-middle tab and right-click Disable everything there, it just prevents startup. Click Start menu and type 'optional' and click 'see optional feature history' - you can remove everything there (one at a time only, wait for uninstall to finish otherwise strange things happen because Windows is Stooopid) except notepad, paint, wordpad, media player (unless you want it all gone - its super easy to return, just click 'add feature' at top.) And, NOW click 'more windows features' and untick everything except the top 2 '.NET's. It's all legacy and advanced networking and server features that are generic-user non-functional. >>>

------

And now the basic clean I do on all incoming pc's before really getting down to business:
CCLEANER TUTORIAL: First Run: Ignore Health Check; Decline All
OPTIONS -> 1) Privacy -> Untick All (2) Updates -> Untick 'Send Notifications' (3) Smart Cleaning -> Untick 'Tell me when...'
TOOLS -> Uninstall -> Click 'Publisher' Remove 'Microsoft' Rubbish - normally not un-installable :) + OLD
CUSTOM CLEAN -> 2 Tabs Windows + Applications: Tick All EXCEPT 'Internet History' & 'Saved Passwords' + 'User Assist History' [bottom] -> Pretty aggressive, but I was trained on HijackThis select-ALL and remove, so... this at least keeps what's useful.
REGISTRY -> Tick All + Run Multiple Times Until Zero Results [this was before the above, but it needs to be done LAST]
DONE!

-------

SSD's: If you have an Solid State Drive, you need to run Tweak SSD v2 immediately, select Secure Download, Install, Tick Everything, Reboot. You can uninstall it now, you'll never need to run it again unless the values are changed. Helps for lifetime + performance [supposedly]. I do it for any and all SSD's that come my way to avoid painful windows failures down the line, which then turns the drive into a portable storage only since it can't handle being read/write all the time and it's slowly dying one day suddenly...

On old windows installations with many years of updates another little free tool is called PatchCleaner, also a run-once scenario, which scans for windows update files without linkages that you can delete; once I cleaned over 20+ GB of useless files!

Oh right, your computer might be slow because the hard drive is failing. Download SpeedFan and install; wait for loading of sensors and click 'S.M.A.R.T.' tab and select from the dropdown your drive information; then at the bottom you will see a 'Fitness' and 'Performance' indicators. If 'Fitness' has zero blue bars/squares then it is fit only for portable storage; it has accumulated too many errors. If you run ChkDsk via the Command Prompt with the following command " chkdsk c:\ /f /r " not including quotation speech marks and select yes, yes, etc and Reboot then it will do a boot-time bad sector scan of your drive. Typically it's 99.9% in the windows or appdata, et al folders which are the most written to then first fail as the drive slowly begins to die suddenly one day. This shouldn't be the problem and everything should be fine... solid states are a little weird, but you can use Defraggler and select 'Optimise' to zero-fill the drive which can help. On a normal 3.5" I would not defrag until doing pretty much everything in this entire missive, and it will take likely overnight each time and require multiple passes...

-------

Creating a new user under control panel and moving to that profile and deleting your old one MIGHT help; if TLDR occurs; but another final resort is to 'Reset this PC' found under the 'Recovery' tab of 'Update & Security' in the Windows 10 Settings (Gear Wheel Icon)... or just click Start and type 'Reset' and get to it there; much easier. Download the latest files online and fresh install, keeping programs and settings; sweet.

-------
*TIP* You can also Uninstall a lot of Apps simply in the Start Menu itself by right-clicking on the offending application and selecting 'Uninstall' right there! Works for Windows Apps mainly; 3rd-party opens Control Panel automatically. I'll stop now, sorry.

-------
 
So much work just in order to be able to run a browser. Why not using a better operating system beforehand?

It's also the wrong approach. Using a totally bloated system and then working hard to slim it down. Better to
start with a lean minimal system and add desired features.

There is also the built-in Disk Cleanup tool which can free up some space.

Cleaning the registry is somewhat useless. It comes from the old days where computers used to have magnetic disks.
The registry is not big. Its fragmentation doesn't matter with SSDs. It's kept in memory anyways.
Never use the preinstalled Windows from the vendor. Don't use recovery tools either. Start with a clean install.
Get the Windows installer from the Internet and use that. The product key is stored inside the ACPI tables and
usually not required during installation. Get only the necessary drivers for the system. Leave out the crap (especially on Lenovo).
Don't install much on the system, only the things that are required and regularly used. Keep it clean and lean.

Screenshot 2022-12-22 at 19.11.34.png
 

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom