Vanilla Devil's Food Cake - gluten free

Ollie

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This recipe came about as a counter birthday cake to a Chocolate version: in other words, it is a type of Devil’s Food Cake for the non-chocoholics present at the birthday party.

However, at first sight, the title, ‘Vanilla’ Devil’s Food Cake does not really compute. After all, one of the theories about how Devil’s Food Cake came about suggests that it was an opposite of, or a counter to, the existing white or yellow Angel Food Cake. Also, it was at a time when both baking chocolate and unsweetened cocoa powder became readily available and affordable, and hence, suitable for making cakes. Originally it was also known as ‘Satan Cake’, and according to Stephen James Schmidt (a culinary historian), ‘it was a very dark cake - one so dark that it suggested some affiliation with the devil’.
The first known recipe for Devil’s Food Cake is believed to have been published in 1902 in the highly influential Mrs Rorer’s New Cook Book: A Manual of Housekeeping. It should be noted that the first chocolate cakes were not even very chocolatey. According to the Food historian Stephen Jones Schmidt, bakers in the mid-to-late 1800’s originally added cocoa powder to cakes only as a means to darken the cake batter.
There are other theories on its origin which are based on different names associated with the cake: Red Velvet Cake, and Red Devil’s Cake (originally, it was a mild chocolate cake that was red in colour). It is on the basis of Devil’s Food Cake originally being a mild chocolate cake, the origin of ‘Velvet’ in the cake’s name, and, historically, a Mahogany Cake, that the reality of a Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake becomes possible.

Historically, and deconstructing some of these cake titles, a case appears for the reality of a Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake.

Before making that case, it should be noted that, before the 19th Century, there was little to distinguish cake from bread, other than the fact that cakes contained richer ingredients, such as butter and eggs. Then, in terms of leavening, usually, cakes derived their lightness through whipping air into eggs, for example, as is the case in making a Génoise, and in making other sponge cakes. At that time, to chemically leaven cakes required the use of yeast. The relevance of the use of chemical leavening (rather than the use of yeast) will become clear soon.

First, dealing with the term ‘Velvet’. Bakers in the 1800s began to use almond flour, cornstarch, and a little cocoa powder to soften the protein in the flour used: to soften the heavier and more dense cakes (the traditional yellow or white cake varieties), that the early American settlers made, and this resulted in finer textured cakes. Velvet cakes first appeared during the Victorian era (1837 – 1901). Velvet cakes were so called because of the fineness of their crumb structure (texture). In his 1873 book, Dr Chase’s Family Physician, Beekeeper and Second Recipe Book, (Ann Arbor Printing and Publishing Company, Michigan) describes the newfangled Velvet Cakes: ‘There is quite a tendency of late to have nice and smooth names applied to things as well as to have nice things hence we have Velvet Cake’. Also, it was during the late 1800s that recipes would frequently call for the use of small amounts of cocoa powder for making luxury cakes, and the method used in making these Velvet Cakes combined vinegar, or buttermilk, and baking soda to get a softer and finer textured cake.

Second, the Mahogany Cake, which is technically the first American chocolate cake, and it appeared in popular cookbooks such as that of the American Dietician, Sarah Tyson Rorer, (her 1806 book was called, Mrs Rorer’s Philadelphia cook book, (Applewood Books, Bedford, Massachusetts)). Early recipes of the Mahogany Cake used White ermine frosting, or ‘flour frosting’, yet by the 1960s, Cream cheese was the norm.
Thirdly, there was a blend of the Mahogany Cake and the original Devil’s Food Cake, that was called Velvet Cocoa Cake, and this became the closest relative to the Red Velvet Cake.

However, it is the way that it is made that has led to the modern Red Velvet Cake. The successful creation of its soft, velvety texture is due to the alchemy of the ingredients (a combination of buttermilk, or vinegar, a little cocoa powder, and baking soda) that created a high rise and its unique reddish-brown colour. The natural acidity of the then made cakes was reduced to a more neutral state, and in the process, the bright red pigments (anthocyamin) in the cocoa powder were released. The result, a reddish-brown cake colour with a whisper, or hint, of chocolate. Thus, the magical properties of Mahogany and Velvet Cakes emerge.

It is on the basis of Devil’s Food Cake originally being a mild chocolate cake, the origin of ‘Velvet’ in the cake’s name, and having a base of a Mahogany Cake, that the reality of a Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake becomes possible.

Or, perhaps, should this cake be called a Vanilla Velvet Food Cake instead?

vanilladevilsfoodcake(doug).jpg

This recipe is based on a ‘chocolate’ Devel’s Food Cake suitably modified to make it a ‘vanilla’ version, and that modification is based on what was previously performed in transforming a Chocolate Devil’s Food Sheet Cake into a Vanilla Sheet Cake.

Rather than using a Cream cheese (or even a vanilla buttercream) filling and topping, this recipe goes back to using a White ermine frosting, or ‘flour frosting’: just as was used in the early recipes of the Mahogany Cake.

The recipe is gluten free, and if a Coconut milk, or Hemp milk, option is taken, it becomes dairy free too.

Note: this is a very rich cake.

Ingredients:
Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake
White Ermine frosting (filling and topping)

Rather than being a traditional American white or yellow cake, Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake is made in a similar fashion to an old-fashioned mayonnaise cake. Mayonnaise cakes descend from the chocolate infused spice cakes made popular in the 20th Century, of which there was a variation called the Red Devil Cake. The earliest printed recipe for a mayonnaise was made in 1927. The cake was popularised by Hellman’s to promote their mayonnaise, which during the Depression and WWII was an economic substitute for butter. The mayonnaise acts as an emulsifying oil, allowing the cake to be moist, rich and tender, and at the same time avoids the taste of oiliness that often happens through using too much butter. Here, the combination of butter and vegetable oil acts as an equivalent to mayonnaise: the higher proportion of vegetable oil in the recipe, compared with butter, avoids the taste of oiliness that would have occurred if only butter had been used.

This gluten-free version of a Vanilla Devil’s Food Cake is influenced by the gluten recipe, for a Devil’s Food Sheet cake, given by Shirl Gard (shirlgard.com), as it is made like an old-fashioned mayonnaise cake.

Ingredients (cake): (sufficient for a two layered 23cm (9in) cake)
Butter (softened, sliced) 110g
Vegetable oil 120g
Cane sugar (superfine) 440g (if not got, use a coffee grinder to blitz the sugar to superfine)
Eggs 200g (4 large, lightly whisked to combine)
Vanilla essence 1Tbsp
Gluten-free Flour mix* (sifted) 436g
Baking soda, (or Bicarbonate of soda) 1tsp
Salt 1/2tsp
Milk (or non-dairy option) 385g

*Gluten-free Flour mix: Brown rice flour 440g; Sweet rice flour 125g; Potato starch 45g; Tapioca starch 95g; Arrowroot powder 55g. Total weight: 760g

Method:
Preheat the oven at 180°C (356°F) for 45 minutes.

Lightly grease the sides and bottom of two 23cm (9in) round cake pans with softened butter; line the sides and bottom with parchment paper; and lightly grease with softened butter.

In the bowl of a stand mixer (1), fitted with a paddle attachment, add the sliced butter and vegetable oil; then beat the two together, initially at low speed, then slowly increasing the speed to medium high, to beat the fast mixture for a total of 30 seconds, the mixture will look bitty, rather than pale, smooth and shiny (which will happen later), approximately 2 – 3 minutes in total.
At low speed, gradually dribble in the superfine cane sugar into the beaten fat (butter and oil) mixture to the stand mixer bowl (1), spread the addition over about 5 minutes; stopping and scraping down the sides and bottom of the mixer bowl after each incorporation, or as required. Turn the speed up to medium-high and continue to beat until the mixture is light and fluffy, thick and paler in colour than when the process was started.

Crack an egg into a small bowl (2), and lightly whisk with the tines of a fork (note that this will be repeated with each egg).

With the mixer running at medium-low speed, add the eggs one at a time, mixing and combining well after each addition; scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl before adding the next egg. After the incorporation of the last egg, add the Vanilla essence, and mix to combine. This the base batter.

In a bowl (3), sift the Gluten-free Flour mix, then add the Bicarbonate of soda and salt; whisk (using both a dessert spoon and a lose wire whisk) to combine. This is the base flour mix. Set aside.

Remove the mixing bowl, containing the base batter, from the stand; fold in one third of the flour mix with a rubber/silicone spatula; add half of the milk and combine, ensuring that all of the flour mix is incorporated. Repeat with another one third of the flour mix and the other half of the milk; combine and incorporate. Finally, fold in the remaining third of the flour mix until it is fully combined (reaching all the way down to the bottom of the bowl, where the flour likes to settle, and incorporate that too). This is the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake batter.

Pour and scrape the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake batter into the prepared cake pans, filling them to between one third and three quarters of their height. Tap each pan lightly on the worksurface a few times to eliminate any air bubbles. Then, smooth the surface of the batter with a thin metal offset spatula, pushing it out to the sides to make a slight depression in the centre.

Place the filled cake pans on a baking sheet on the middle shelf of the preheated (180°C (356°F)) oven and bake for 40 – 45 minutes, or until the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layers start to pull away slightly from the sides of the pan, and the tops are firm to the touch. If not, bake for a further 5 minutes.

Remove the baked Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layers from the oven, and leave them to cool in the cake pans for 10 minutes; then run a paring knife around the perimeter, between the cake pan and the cake, to loosen the cake layers, and remove parchment paper lining the sides; then the cake layers onto a parchment paper covered wire rack.
Using another parchment paper covered wire cooling rack. flip one of the cake layers, so that the loose bottom and the parchment paper on the bottom of the cake layer may be removed. Flip back over and allow the cake layer to cool, the right way up, completely.

The Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layers may be kept at room temperature for up to 3 days, if stored in an airtight container, or covered airtight in a fridge for up to 3 days too. Alternatively, cut slices and wrap in clingfilm and freeze for up to 2 months in a freezer. If frozen, defrost overnight in a refrigerator, then unwrap the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layers, place on a wire cooling rack for at least 3 hours before using.

Whilst the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layers are cooling, or are refrigerated, make the Ermine Frosting, which is a form of white Buttercream, or ‘flour frosting’, a filling and topping, just as was used in the early recipes of the Mahogany Cake.

This recipe is guided by the blogpost of Sugar Geek Recipes for a White Velvet Buttermilk Cake (White velvet cake (recipe) + color variations | Sugar Geek Show).

White Ermine Frosting
Ingredients: (sufficient for filling, topping and covering the sides of a two layered 23cm (9in) cake)
Cane sugar 360g
Gluten free Flour mix 2* 85g
Milk (or non-dairy option) 454g
Butter (softened, sliced) 454g (room temperature)
Vanilla essence 2tsp
Salt 1/4tsp

*Gluten-free Flour mix: White rice flour 440g; Sweet rice flour 125g; Potato starch 45g; Tapioca starch 95g; Arrowroot powder 55g. Total weight: 760g

Method:
In a medium-large sized saucepan (4), add the Cane sugar and Gluten-free Flour mix; then, first using a Tablespoon to turn over the mixture and combine, then a loose wire whisk, whisk to combine, before, finally, once again turning the mixture over with a Tablespoon to finally combine.
Over low heat, cook the sugar-flour mix for approximately 2 minutes, to toast the flour. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon all of the time; to prevent the sugar sticking to the saucepan.
Over medium to low heat, slowly add the milk, stirring with a wooden spoon, or a wooden spatula, initially to combine.
Reduce the heat to medium-low; add the milk, and making sure that a wooden spoon reaches everywhere - bottom, sides, and corners, so that the mixture does not burn. Keep the spoon in constant motion. Stir the sweetened flour-milk mixture until, when a finger is drawn across the back of the wooden spoon, a mark is left; it has begun to thicken, and the mixture is thoroughly blended.
Off heat, continue stirring the sweetened flour-milk mixture for a further minute.

Line a baking tray with clingfilm, and pour the sweetened flour-milk mixture into this, ensuring that it is thinner than 5cm (2in) in thickness.
Cover airtight with clingfilm and place in a refrigerator to cool for several hours. It is cool when the bottom of the baking tray feels cold. Remove the top layer of the clingfilm. Using a rubber, or silicon spatula roll up the sweetened flour-milk mixture to one end of the baking tray and scoop into a bowl (5). Set aside, and bring up to room temperature.

Remove the butter from the refrigerator, and bring up to room temperature. It is important that both the sweetened flour-milk mixture and butter are at a similar temperature, otherwise the Ermine frosting will split when combining the two components (if it does split, it may be rescued by placing the split Ermine frosting (buttercream) over a saucepan of simmering water, warm the topping for 2 minutes, or so, to melt the butter a little, turn the Frosting over with a silicone spatula to reach more of the butter in the mix. Then Ermine frosting may be whipped again to bring it all together).

In the bowl (5) of the stand fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter for 30 – 60 seconds medium-high speed until smooth; reduce speed to medium-low and slowly add the sweetened flour-milk mixture a very little at a time. This is another key to prevent splitting. It is suggested that only a maximum of 3 dessert spoons of the mixture are added at a time, and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl between each addition. When all of the mixture is added beat for between 2 – 5 minutes to get a really smooth Ermine frosting. Finally, at low speed, add the Vanilla essence, and salt, and beat to incorporate.

Divide up the Ermine frosting in half, and place in two bowls (6 & 7). One half for the middle of the cake and for the top, and the other half for the sides.

Place the White Ermine frosting in a refrigerator for 15 - 30mins to firm up, only if it, seems, is too ‘runny’ to stick to the side of the cake without it running loosely down the side.

Assembly 1:
To assemble the cake, first, cut three or four strips of wide (enough to fit under edge of cake and overlap the plate edge, all the way round) parchment paper.

Lay the four strips of cut parchment paper on the top edges of the cake layer, one on each side so that they overlap the edges of the cake layer; interleaf the strips, clockwise, so that there is a seemingly continuous surface (this will help with spreading the White Ermine frosting on the sides, as well as keeping the plate surface clean).

Flip the cake layer onto a serving plate.

Bring the White Ermine frosting (bowl 6 only) up to room temperature, if it is not already there. Divide the Ermine frosting in half. The first half will be used as a filling. Place the other half in another small bowl (8), and set aside, or place in a refrigerator until needed. This Ermine frosting will be used to enrobe the cake.

Scoop the White Ermine frosting filling (that remaining in bowl 6) onto, and over, the flat surface of the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layer that is on the prepared plate. Using a thin metal spatula, spread it generously over the flat surface, starting around the outer perimeter, going right to the edge; finally, place any Ermine frosting left into the centre of the cake surface. Spread the Ermine frosting evenly, smoothing the White Ermine frosting filling in towards the centre.

Carefully, take the other, set aside, Vanilla Devil’s Food cake layer, which is right side up, and place it on top of the filling; press down to firm up the filling, and to force it out to the side of the cake. Using a set square against the side, check that the two layers are level, adjust as necessary. Rotate the cake a quarter turn and repeat. Then, using a thin, offset metal spatula, clean up any excess filling and smooth the filling edges flat to the cake layers. Any excess may be spread thinly on the top of the cake.

Place the filled Vanilla Devil’s Food cake in a refrigerator to firm up the White Ermine frosting filling.
Assembly 2:
Remove the filled Vanilla Devil’s Food cake from the refrigerator. Ensure that the White Ermine frosting (bowl 7 and 8) is at room temperature.

Scoop a little of the White Ermine frosting (bowl 8 only) on to the middle of the cake surface, and spread around, to evenly crumb coat the cake surface (filling in any depressions, etc, so that the surface is smooth). Allow this to set.

Scoop the rest of the White Ermine frosting (bowl 8) onto, and over, the cake’s top surface, using a thin metal spatula, spread it generously over the flat surface, starting around the outer perimeter, going right to the edge; the idea is to spread the White Ermine frosting evenly, yet with a rough, swirl-like (think of turbulent vortices and eddy currents) appearance.

Using a clean, thin metal spatula to scoop a little of the remaining White Ermine frosting (bowl 7), starting at the base of cake, spread the Ermine frosting, diagonally, up the side of the cake; repeat with the rest of the White Ermine frosting, moving around the cake perimeter. Again, the idea is to have an even layer, yet with a rough appearance. Then, merge the top and side coatings, to blend together.

When finished, place the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake back into a refrigerator, so that the White Ermine frosting may set.
If the cake is to be decorated, leave it in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes before removing and then making any decoration on the Ermine frosting surface.

Allow the Vanilla Devil’s Food cake to come up to room temperature before eating.

Enjoy!!!
 
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