getting rid of fleas

hey all,

well, my cat got fleas this summer, and brought them into the house, as well as giving them to the dog. i noticed them about a week ago and have begun a rigorous method to get rid of them. i'm posting this here to see if anyone can verify these methods and/or add anything they may have done in the past that worked...

first i washed the pets off with pyrethrin shampoo, then waited a day and gave them both frontline treatments. then i bombed the house with a fumigator (for fleas and larvae) in each room (stayed away for a day, of course), then sprayed the furniture down with knockout spray and began washing all my clothes and bedding. yesterday i began laying down 20 mule-team borax on all the carpeting and will wait about two days to vacuum it up. have also been vacuuming every day before that and throwing the bag out. i'm also hoping to (this evening) spray the yard down with hi-yield broad-use insecticide, especially in the dog's kennel, and rake out all of the grass and straw from the kennel and burn it in the fire pit.

needless to say, this is quite an irritating problem, and expensive! i've only seen a couple fleas here and there in the last couple days and i think they may be coming from the basement, so that's due for another insect bomb and perhaps a borax treatment.

can anyone else add anything to these methods that may work? i want to nip this in the bud.

thanks in advance for any replies...

Hi Johnny:

I had the same problem a few summers ago and did everything you have (right down to the Borax in the carpet), and that solved the problem. The only thing I would add is to be super vigilant for a few weeks afterwards, vacuuming everyday, especially anywhere the animals tend to lay; brushing the animals everyday (outside!); and bathing them with flea shampoo once a week. Also, I wouldn't worry about throwing out the vacuum bag all the time from this point forward; sucking up some borax or salt with each use will kill any fleas/eggs in the bag.

Thoroughness is key, and it sounds as though you have been very thorough. Like me, you will probably now never forget this expensive and labour-intensive lesson in "prevention is the best cure"..... ;)

right on... yes i have done my best to be thorough... aside from perhaps running out of fuel oil in the dead of winter, this is one of the most mentally taxing things i've ever dealt with. those little buggers are invading my dreams!

PepperFritz said:

Like me, you will probably now never forget this expensive and labour-intensive lesson in "prevention is the best cure".....

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no kidding! i guess "all is lessons" includes fleas as well :P

I acquired my knowledge of fleas (and biting/blood sucking insects) during my younger years of dealing with children and animals. Also back then, I guess I was much more yummy tasting cuz if they (biting insects) were around, I was a smorgasbord for them. My siblings teased me one morning when I awoke with a hooked nose and a beak; I was bitten on the end of my nose and upper lip which had swelled considerably. I have to admit I was a funny looking sight!

But, here’s what I learned. Most fleas are more abundant and active in late Spring/early Summer and late Summer/early Fall. The most natural way to repel biting insects is with vitamin B1 (thiamin). I don’t recall the dosage exactly, so you may want to check on this. Memory prompts me to 50mg per day. Apparently, B1 causes an odor to the skin that repels biting insects. (This I learned from my pediatrician.) It can be given to your animals as well. Adding it to their food is an easy administration.

Currently on the market is a product which is administered to your cat/dog in drop form that is put on their fur. Although it is a poison, it has excellent results (especially for cats as if they are outdoor cats placing a collar on them can endanger their lives). It can be purchased through your vet or over the counter. It comes in a small tube in various potency forms (for puppies/kittens; cats, dogs dependent upon size of the animal). For cats/kittens it is administered to the back of the neck (where they cannot lick themselves) and for dogs along the spine where it is harder for them to reach). One application lasts up to thirty days. Depending upon the seasonal flea population, two to four applications per year should probably get you through.

Neem oil also seems efficient as far as parasites control is concerned :
http://www.cassiopaea.org/forum/index.php?topic=5687.msg40355#msg40355

Annette1 said:

Currently on the market is a product which is administered to your cat/dog in drop form that is put on their fur. Although it is a poison, it has excellent results (especially for cats as if they are outdoor cats placing a collar on them can endanger their lives). It can be purchased through your vet or over the counter. It comes in a small tube in various potency forms (for puppies/kittens; cats, dogs dependent upon size of the animal). For cats/kittens it is administered to the back of the neck (where they cannot lick themselves) and for dogs along the spine where it is harder for them to reach). One application lasts up to thirty days. Depending upon the seasonal flea population, two to four applications per year should probably get you through.

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aye, i got the frontline-plus treatment for the cat and the dog, and they seem to be staying clear (at least for the last two days). as you said, i put the oil on their backs just below the neck and let it soak into the skin. the inside of the house is clear, and hopefully once i spray the yard down with insecticide (pyrethrins - naturally decomposes after a while) it should all be good. we're beginning to get some cold weather up here as well so hopefully there won't be a resurgence and once spring hits (i know... if we all make it that far :/) i'll do some more preventative measures to keep them away...

one side note - if anyone uses straw as a bedding for a dog kennel, make sure to treat it somehow. i'm fairly certain that the straw i got from a local farm was previously infested with eggs, which hatched once the dog begin sleeping/living in it around the middle of the summer... but i can't be sure, as the cat was actually worse, and doesn't frequent the dog's kennel. maybe a combination of the cat's wandering (thick fur - picks up things) and the dog's straw...

thanks for the tips guys... gonna check out neem oil as well. i also read that if you mix garlic with the pets' food that can serve as an effective long-term repellent...

FWIW - I forgot to mention that the vitamin B1 takes about 2 weeks to become effective. And, it does work. I had gone to my pediatrician's office with my daughters in tow. We were covered with flea bites and tearing our skin from scratching. I asked for a man-made drug which does not keep the fleas from biting (or any bloodsucking insect), but is very effective in relieving the itching. This is when the pediatrician suggested the vitamin B1 which repels the insect on humans and animals. I was skeptical at first and was amazed with the results.

I skip the flea bombing indoors and just vacuum. If it is a severe, long standing infestation I can understand wanting to flea bomb but for a few fleas I just vigilantly flea comb them daily, vacuum daily, wash all the linens, etc. Be sure to have a glass of water with a drop of soap in it to dip the flea comb in it when you snag a flea with the comb. The soap ensures that the lil' bugger drowns muhua hua hua!

A simple bath with regular dog shampoo will drown the fleas off without using a shampoo with flea chemicals. Shampoos with pyrethins are less toxic than the chemical flea dip shampoos but I just use plain shampoo. Start at the head when wetting the dog down with water carefully without getting water in their ears, as the fleas will flee towards the highest point on the body when you start to wash your pet.

_http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2000/08/20/flea-shampoo.aspx

The garlic and brewer's yeast (source of the B vitamins) in their food is a good protocol too.

I used to use Frontline or Advantage but my female Pug, Ruby, would get horrible staph skin infections in reaction to the poison. Frontline is absorbed systemically into their skin and sebaceous glands to form a film of poison with their natural oils all over their body to repel the fleas. Plus she was recently diagnosed with a Mast Cell tumor which is a particularly nasty form of skin cancer. I would not dose with topical flea treatments such as Frontline or Advantage if your pet has cancer. Like pouring gasoline on a fire.

There are essential oils that repel fleas that you can dilute with distilled water in a spray bottle and spray on your pet for a less toxic treatment.
_http://www.thewholedog.org/EOFleas.html

Use caution with Pennyroyal as it can be toxic if consumed by your pet. It is fine if diluted but if your pet can lick it off that may be a problem.

I recently purchased Pet Guard Natural Flea Collars but have not used them yet. I will advise as to what the results are when I do. The essential oils listed on the ingredient list are: Pennyroyal, Eucalyptus, Cedarwood, Citronella, Rue and Rosemary.

Put Apple Cider Vinegar in their water bowl.

_http://www.healthy-dogs.net/fleas.htm

Also placing cedar shavings in their bed indoors and in their kennel bedding if you kennel them works well.

For treating the yard for fleas, I have heard that using Diatomaceous Earth is good but have never tested it out myself.
_http://www.dirtworks.net/Diatomaceous-Earth.html

This is a good article on vacuuming fleas instead of flea bombing with toxic chemicals inside that are harmful to your pet and yourself.

_http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/22300344//

The natural treatments do take longer but for me it works the best. You do have to weigh the fact that while natural is less toxic, on the other hand if not containing the problem fast enough can lead to more serious health issues for your pet.

I try to stay on top of it to be proactive.

Annette1 said:

Currently on the market is a product which is administered to your cat/dog in drop form that is put on their fur. Although it is a poison, it has excellent results (especially for cats as if they are outdoor cats placing a collar on them can endanger their lives). It can be purchased through your vet or over the counter.

Click to expand...

Yes, all of our dogs and cats are given this treatment now, and we've not had any problems since. I've also been giving the dogs a clove of garlic a day (hidden in a piece of meat), which apparently fleas do not like the smell/taste of.

I'd have to agree with April on this one - any pesticide that is absorbed systemically cannot be good long term for the animal.  The book 'Detoxify or Die' goes into great detail on pesticides and what they can do and animals are not that different from people (in fact they tend to be more sensitive).  I won't use anything on my animals that I don't use on myself - but - to be fair, I'm lucky enough to live at high enough altitude, with low enough humidity to not have to deal with fleas at all.  I used to live in big time flea country, though, soooo, I do understand how maddening they can be.

anart said:

...any pesticide that is absorbed systemically cannot be good long term for the animal.

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i understand i've already given them the treatment so perhaps i can use the "down-time" to learn about these more natural responses to pest problems. i have read that cats are highly sensitive to anything containing pyrethrins so i'm keeping a close eye on him... haven't noticed symptoms of anything yet. but i imagine the fleas have given him tapeworms, so i'm on the track now of trying to find a good natural de-wormer... for the dog as well...

and thanks for that detailed response April. i'm in the process now of reading the links you provided...

You are most certainly welcome, JohnnyRadar.


May the Flea Be Gone Force Be With You.
April The Flea Whisperer. :P

April said:

The natural treatments do take longer but for me it works the best. You do have to weigh the fact that while natural is less toxic, on the other hand if not containing the problem fast enough can lead to more serious health issues for your pet.

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Agreed!! April, you have pretty well covered the spectrum of natural flea control.
I can only think of a couple of things that may also help. If your pet has favorite spots you can treat those spots with a little salt or boric acid. This will dessicate the eggs and flea maggots before they become biting adults. Salt usually works better if the area is carpeted. With wood floors, the material can be swept into the cracks by sweeping against the grain or you can use a bit of boric acid in the mop water.

Also, if hand picking fleas from your pet, a little petroleum jelly on a cotton swab or your finger will cause the flea to stick to it when touched. Even if the flea escapes, it will soon die, since the petroleum jelly will suffocate it.

anulios

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Thank you Anulios for the extra tips! I especially like the petroleum jelly method :)

This reminds me of one more tip I have read about but have not tried.

Leave a pan of water (with a few drops of soap) with lamp nearby (but secure enough for safety zzzzt) on the floor. During the night, the fleas are attracted to the light and warmth and jump in the pan and drown. For safety, maybe a clip lamp to shine down on the pan would work?

The salt on the carpet tip is good if you do not live on the coast or a place with high humidity. I recall reading an article that salt will absorb the moisture out of the air and create a moist, salty soupy disaster in your carpet. Maybe that is only if you leave the salt on for too long?

we had a problem with fleas once ,after laying brand new seagrass matting (on a dirt floor with only builders plastic) the perfect breeding ground for fleas.
A friend gave me a tip how to get rid of them .
Make a strong "tea" from penny royal and tansy, use a brush to flick the tea onto the floor , starting in the middle of the room open all doors and work in a spiral and drive the fleas out the door , it doesn't kill them but they don't like the smell.
It is supposed to last for 7 years and I can confirm that.
Like mosquitoes its only the females that such blood(for protein to lay eggs) the males live on plant juice
I hope that helps
RRR