Mind you, you really don't need much of it in cooking: a classic saffron risotto for four, for instance, takes 10 or so strands, that's all. I just wish people would use it properly – even some top chefs don't seem to know what to do with it. I saw one on telly the other week who just put in a big handful of unprepared saffron at the end. That's madness – no one could afford to do that in real life, and you don't get any of that unique aroma and flavour, which is the whole point.
To get the best out of your saffron, you have to soak it for a few hours – preferably overnight – in a little warm water. And keep it out of the light: like all spices, saffron hates the sun. After infusing, the strands should be very pale and the colour should have leeched into the liquid. In other words, if you can see bright red saffron strands in a finished dish, you can tell it hasn't been prepared properly. You wouldn't believe the difference doing it properly can make.