Water

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bo
  • Start date Start date
Whenever i go to a hiking in the mountains i always take some spring water for drinking for home. As much as i can carry in my backpack. And few times i tried to compare the tap water from here where i live and a pure cold spring water. Its 2 different worlds. The only common thing that they share is how we call it. The tap water is like oilly and fuul with chlorine and it tastes like it have some powder in it.
The real feeling is when i wash my face and hands up to my shoulders with cold spring water. Its so refreshing and very very energizing. My 9 years old son mentioned me this when he was washing himself with a cold spring water, He noticed that he is more energized when he is doing that, and he is doing that every rime when we go hiking, even when a weather is cold.
Even when you wash clothes with pure spring water they are cleaner , and you need much less detergent.
Water is really important part and we must find a best possible source of water.
 
I just read this thread, and regarding the post in the beginning about shower filters, and home filters, Dr. Mercola made a video regarding just that. He recommends minimizing your exposure to the harmful chemicals in your water by taking shorter showers if you don't have a home/shower filter. He also recommend taking a cold shower to also minimize the vapor you inhale! :) (Another reason to take cold showers). He only touches on chlorine, but I was wondering if fluoride, lead or mercury as a vapor from your water supply can also be harmful (I'm sure it is).


I read an article a while back stating that research shows that virtually every home has detectable amounts of chloroform gasses due to showering in chlorinated water!? That obviously came to a shock to me. There's a high risk for inhaling chloroform especially for those who take long hot showers.

It's been linked to lung aggravation and cancer, among other things! (Yet the biggest concern for lung cancer and cancer in general is smoking tobacco... What a shame!)

I'm even curious if the chloroform in my shower played a factor into why I got so sleepy after showering when I use to take long hot showers.

On the topic of soap that Dr. Mercola discusses in the video, I've been switching over to no-suds cleansing for a while now. It's true that your body has a protective layer of fatty acids that not only ward off bacteria (you do more of a dis-service when using soap, especially anti-bacterial soap, then you may think - soap strips away this protective 'film'), it also acts as a natural 'sunscreen' that prevents your skin from getting burned when spending time under the sun, amongst other things.

I have finally been able to 'Oil-cleanse' without smelling (Or at least I don't think I smell) while still feeling clean. And while it may seem strange, it's actually the safest and most effective way of cleaning your body. In fact, soap as we know it today wasn't really introduced until the 16th century.

The ancient Egyptians used oils to bathe; the Tibetan's praised butter as the best cleanser, and/or egg yokes, and we've all heard the racist jokes of native Americas and their bear grease.
 
I have been using the Berkey filter for 7 month now and it works good for me an my son. We both find it of good taste.

According to a test on removal of heavy metals it is, as with the Zen Water System, the most effective filter.

Berkey
Aluminum: 86.6%
Copper: 100.0%
Arsenic: 100.0%
Strontium: 100.0%
Cadmium: 100.0%
Cesium: 98.6%
Mercury: 99.8%
Lead: 100.0%
Uranium: 100.0%

http://www.waterfilterlabs.com/Big-Berkey-gravity-water-filter-heavy-metals-lab-results.html

I have not added the fluorite filter as it is not added to the water systems in Norway.
 
I have been thinking about getting a distiller instead of using the Berkey. The problem with the Berkey is the fluoride filters need to be changed too frequently as they quickly lose effectiveness in removing fluoride. My thinking is that a distiller would be better in continually removing fluoride and I don't need to frequently test the water to see how much fluoride is present.

At the moment, my default is the Waterwise 4000 Countertop Distiller recommended earlier in this thread and in other threads. Do you think that the Waterwise 4000 is the distiller I should get?
 
hlat said:
At the moment, my default is the Waterwise 4000 Countertop Distiller recommended earlier in this thread and in other threads. Do you think that the Waterwise 4000 is the distiller I should get?

I have a similar type distiller from "Megahome". I just want to point out the importance of cleaning the dust out of the condenser coils and fan at the top. I had done mine over the weekend (which took longer than I thought it would). I cannot recall how long I had this one for, but when checking my purchase records, it was 2.5 years, and I hadn't cleaned it at all!

You can see the dust developing on the coils. And the fan will get some dust and gunk on it. There are three screws on the inner top lid that are difficult to remove, because you have to put the screwdriver at a slight angle, reducing torque, and they tighten the screws a bit too tight. So I stripped them a bit. I would advise putting a lot of pressure on the screwdriver and holding your hand directly behind the top part opposite the end you're exerting pressure on with the screwdriver. And when done just tighten enough so you won't strip the screw on the next cleaning.

I used a round watercolor brush that I had around to knock off a lot of the dust. I should have done it outside, because it got everywhere and it wasn't fun to breathe it. Then I took a computer air can and sprayed air to get up all the loosened dust. I wiped the blades with a wet paper towel and cleaned the unit and vacuumed up the dust.

I just mention this because I noticed over the weekend that the finished gallon of water was really warm, even after about an hour of it being done. It's a bit cold in the house, and when I poured the water in a cup, there was steam coming out of it! After the dust removal, the finished water batch is much cooler, and it seems cooler than my body temperature when I touch the glass container. I had a similar type distiller I stopped using due to a lot of red deposits on the interior, but it was a different brand. I recall it had the same nagging issue of hard to undo screws. That makes you not want to clean the dust out often, because it seems the screws are really easy to strip. Anyways, fwiw.
 
3D Student said:
hlat said:
At the moment, my default is the Waterwise 4000 Countertop Distiller recommended earlier in this thread and in other threads. Do you think that the Waterwise 4000 is the distiller I should get?

I have a similar type distiller from "Megahome". I just want to point out the importance of cleaning the dust out of the condenser coils and fan at the top. I had done mine over the weekend (which took longer than I thought it would). I cannot recall how long I had this one for, but when checking my purchase records, it was 2.5 years, and I hadn't cleaned it at all!

You can see the dust developing on the coils. And the fan will get some dust and gunk on it. There are three screws on the inner top lid that are difficult to remove, because you have to put the screwdriver at a slight angle, reducing torque, and they tighten the screws a bit too tight. So I stripped them a bit. I would advise putting a lot of pressure on the screwdriver and holding your hand directly behind the top part opposite the end you're exerting pressure on with the screwdriver. And when done just tighten enough so you won't strip the screw on the next cleaning.

I used a round watercolor brush that I had around to knock off a lot of the dust. I should have done it outside, because it got everywhere and it wasn't fun to breathe it. Then I took a computer air can and sprayed air to get up all the loosened dust. I wiped the blades with a wet paper towel and cleaned the unit and vacuumed up the dust.

I just mention this because I noticed over the weekend that the finished gallon of water was really warm, even after about an hour of it being done. It's a bit cold in the house, and when I poured the water in a cup, there was steam coming out of it! After the dust removal, the finished water batch is much cooler, and it seems cooler than my body temperature when I touch the glass container. I had a similar type distiller I stopped using due to a lot of red deposits on the interior, but it was a different brand. I recall it had the same nagging issue of hard to undo screws. That makes you not want to clean the dust out often, because it seems the screws are really easy to strip. Anyways, fwiw.

Thanks. I think I'm going to get a distiller from a retail store and see how it goes. I'll probably run the distilled water through the Berkey.
 
3D Student said:
hlat said:
At the moment, my default is the Waterwise 4000 Countertop Distiller recommended earlier in this thread and in other threads. Do you think that the Waterwise 4000 is the distiller I should get?

I have a similar type distiller from "Megahome". I just want to point out the importance of cleaning the dust out of the condenser coils and fan at the top. I had done mine over the weekend (which took longer than I thought it would). I cannot recall how long I had this one for, but when checking my purchase records, it was 2.5 years, and I hadn't cleaned it at all!

You can see the dust developing on the coils. And the fan will get some dust and gunk on it. There are three screws on the inner top lid that are difficult to remove, because you have to put the screwdriver at a slight angle, reducing torque, and they tighten the screws a bit too tight. So I stripped them a bit. I would advise putting a lot of pressure on the screwdriver and holding your hand directly behind the top part opposite the end you're exerting pressure on with the screwdriver. And when done just tighten enough so you won't strip the screw on the next cleaning.

I used a round watercolor brush that I had around to knock off a lot of the dust. I should have done it outside, because it got everywhere and it wasn't fun to breathe it. Then I took a computer air can and sprayed air to get up all the loosened dust. I wiped the blades with a wet paper towel and cleaned the unit and vacuumed up the dust.

I just mention this because I noticed over the weekend that the finished gallon of water was really warm, even after about an hour of it being done. It's a bit cold in the house, and when I poured the water in a cup, there was steam coming out of it! After the dust removal, the finished water batch is much cooler, and it seems cooler than my body temperature when I touch the glass container. I had a similar type distiller I stopped using due to a lot of red deposits on the interior, but it was a different brand. I recall it had the same nagging issue of hard to undo screws. That makes you not want to clean the dust out often, because it seems the screws are really easy to strip. Anyways, fwiw.

I have been debating on cleaning the fins on my Megahome distiller, but was holding off thinking I might not get back together. Now with your advice and success I have a weekend project. :)
 
Been awhile but I thought I would add to this thread for anyone looking into these things currently.

My sister bought one of these. It filters 99.9% of fluoride according to the manufacturer - and a lot of other stuff. The specs are on the website. I'm planning on testing my well water at home so I will test this water too.


My mom has a kangen ionizer so I will test that too. Kangen says 90% fluoride filtration. I think I can eliminate the rest with the iodine protocol but I will keep the santevia in mind if test results are good.

I may also use quartz in the water. I'm currently in May 2015 of the transcripts so I'll be at the water session soon. When I get test results I will post them here
 
I'm back with test results. I bought this test from amazon. I'm not sure if I trust the efficacy of this test so I'm going to have the local health unit test the water. If they don't test for everything including fluoride I will find another option. Our well water doesn't contain fluoride according to this test so it wasn't possible to test the Kangen systems fluoride removal capabilities. I'll come back with the health unit results once I have them.

Well Water


Sulfate 250 ppm (ok)


Nitrate 0 (ok)


Nitrite 0 (ok)


Total Hardness hard 120 ok


Free Chlorine 0


Iron 0


Mercury 0


Total Chlorine 0


Copper 0


Lead 0


Zinc 2


Manganese 0


Quat 10


Fluoride 0


Sodium Chloride 50


Hydrogen Sulfide 0


Total Alkalinity 180 - 240 (ok-high)


Carbonate 240 (high)


pH 8.2 (ok)


Coliform Bacteria


Bromine 0


Kangen Water


Sulfate 250 (ok)


Nitrite 0


Nitrate 0


Total Hardness ?


Free Chlorine 0


Bromide 0


Iron 0


Mercury 0


Total Chlorine 0


Copper 0


Lead 0


Zinc 0


Manganese 0


Quat 10


Fluoride 0


Sodium Chloride 50 - 75


Hydrogen Sulfite 0


Total Alkalinity 40


Carbonate 0 - 40


pH 6 - 6.4
 

Attachments

  • 20241012_232836.JPG
    20241012_232836.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
Back
Top Bottom